Reverse Thread Wheel Studs?

"It sounds like a puller is the only way to go for the rear drums. Sounds like I don't want to take the big nut off on the rear hub all the way, or the brake parts will pop out everywhere."


If you have the loose type drums the screws are visible on the drum's flat face, between the studs. If you need to pull the hub from the tapered axle, it can be very tight. A large multi-arm puller that bolts onto the studs is mandatory to avoid damaging the drum.

When the hub pops loose it can be sudden and forceful, and you don't want to be in the way - that is why it is recommended to leave the nut partially threaded. The small parts are not going to fly.

There is much good and more detailed discussion of these things in the archives here.

 

MIL / CJ BRAKES 1941-1971
1941 -1953 CJ's use early type 9" Bendix brakes.
1953 -1971 CJ's use late type 9" Bendix brakes.
1965 -1971 CJ's with D-225 use 10" Wagner brakes.

All rear CJ hubs for use with tapered type axles are identicle except that 1953-1971 tapered hubs are tapped with
qty. (3) 1/4" NC screw threads to fasten the late type 9" Bendix brake drums.
1965 -1971 hubs used with 10" Wagner brakes were not tapped for drum mounting.

All standard CJ's 1941 -1971 used 9" Kelsey Hayes (KH) brake drums.
There are two types of 9" Bendix brake drums.
Early (1941 -1953) and late (1953 -1971)
1941 -1953 9" KH drums are mounted inboard of the hub flange.
1953 -1971 9" KH drums are mounted outboard of the hub flange.
Early 9" Bendix brakes require hub removal from the axle assembly to access the wheel brakes.
Late 9" Bendix brakes do not require hub removal from the axle assembly to access the wheel brakes.

To remove early type brake drums from hub; spray the lug studs with penetrating oil.
Then press or drive the lug studs out.

All lug studs have a serrated collar to prevent the stud from spinning when lug nuts are fitted.
There are two lengths of serrated lug stud collars used with 9" Bendix brakes.
The early 9" Bendix stud collar is about 1/16" longer than the late 9" Bendix stud collar because it passes through the drum wall.
CJ's with 10" Wagner brakes also used a longer stud collar.

The serrated stud collars do not interfere with the 9" KH drum lug stud holes.
The serrated stud collars are swaged into the 10" Wagner drums.

The stud collar is not required to position the drum onto the hub.
There is a raised circle on rear hub flange that is used to position all external mounted drums.
The raised circle is approximately 4" diameter.
All front drums are fitted over that same hub dimension, thereby the front and rear drums are identicle.
The 3 countersink screws are not required to position the 9" KH drum to the hub.

Late type 9" KH drums can be used with early type 9" Bendix backing plate assemblies.
It's been a while since I mounted late type drums onto an early Bendix system.
As you know there is an outer ridge / band that encircles the brake drum.
If I recall correctly the late drum on an early backing plate will have a slightly greater gap between the plate and drum ridge.
There is no late type drum ridge interference with the early type backing plate.
They fit and function perfectly well.

The late type 9" Bendix brakes are no better nor are they any worse than the early type 9" Bendix brakes.
They are only different.
The late type are much easier to service and should be considered as an upgrade over that of the early type.
The early type has one advantage over the late type.
The advantage is the ability to custom adjust each individual shoe for specific wear.

 

Not sure of the month of manufacture unfortunately. Being a diesel the records are sketchy and not inline with other serial numbers. I just know it was registered originally as a 66.

 

Thanks Oldtime for the info. Amazing wealth of knowledge there!

 

My 94 Mitsubishi Fuso FG still has LH threads on the drivers side, confusing for most tire shops.
The torque on the studs and lug nuts is 560 lb ft vs 1200 lb ft. just because they are they same size as a Kenworth dosent mean they should be as tight.
Even with a 5 ft cheater, I could'nt break them loose once.
I don't let them put wheels on the MF anymore.

 

I changed the brakes on my 64 cj5 by removing the drum only. It took penetrating oil and a little bit of pecking with a hammer.
Loosen the brake shoes first. Sure beats pulling the hub...
By the way, my 47 plymouth coupe has left hand threads on the drivers side also.........

 

My stock '59 has LH threads on drivers side. When I take it to a garage for state inspection I make sure the guy at the desk writes that on the work order (I know they will remove the wheels to inspect the brakes.) I also ask that the oldest mechanic they have be the one who works on it.

 

A Service Standard is always provided for a specific model and each specific vintage.
The Standard CJ engine was the F-134 Hurricane from 1953 through 1971.
In production however the Dauntless V-6 was actually more common than the F-134 during the years of 1966-1971.
The 10" Wagner brakes were always supplied (standard) with Dauntless 225 engines.
The use of a dual (split) master cylinder was placed into effect according to a federal mandate effecting all vehicle manufacturers in the year of 1967.
Manufacture of new vehicles using a single resevoir systems became illegal in 1967.
In 1967 Jeep mearly modified their existing brake linkages to fit the "then" new Wagner split bore cylinders.

5.38 front and 5.89 rear ?
So it has taller rear tires than the front tires ?

 

Thought you guys might find this interesting. I thought it was pretty cool. It actually works really good.

 

FYI- This is not a substitute for a parking brake that works - read and heed the warning on the switch plate.

We had one on a fire engine in our Dept, and the truck almost crushed a guy when it failed. (The brake fluid trapped in the line expanded from exhaust heat and burst a tube.)

 

Thanks Pete for letting me know. I'll be careful with it.

 

That is a hill holder type thing.
So you can take off from a light when stopped on an uphill grade.