Reverse Thread Wheel Studs?

Hey Guys. Happy New Year!
Question. I was taking the tires off my 66 CJ6 today to remove the shocks because the bushings are shot. The driver side, both front and rear wheel studs are a reverse thread. The nuts are 3/4 versus the passenger side being 13/16 as well. The 3/4 nuts are too small, in that they are pulling through the holes in the wheel when you tighten them down. The 13/16 fit better, could almost go 7/8 to have more nut over the hole. So I need to find some 13/16 reverse thread nuts for the driver side wheels. Anybody else's Jeep like this? Thought it was a little weird.
Thanks,
David

 

Reverse thread on the left is not required. My 66 came stock with RH thread all fours.

 

I just bought aftermarket lugs for some jeeps. Got Gorilla brand from Summit. There are two styles, one that are 3/4" wrench and one that is 13/16". They are a little different style taper.

McGard is my favorite lug nut and that's what the right hand thread ones are, but Mcgard no longer makes the left hand thread. I would seriously consider upgrading to all right hand thread lugs for convenience, my A1 is thus equipped although my MB and several trailers are R/L. Then just buy all brand new McGard right hand thread lug nuts.

 

This was apparently common on the earlier models.. I don't know what year they stopped but I had a 59 that was LH thread on one side.. My 66 had normal studs.. No clue why really but it was frustrating trying to get lugs off until I realized I was going the wrong way.. haha..

 

Yep. I thought man! Someone sure put these on here tight! Then I thought that while I was there, I'd take a look at the brakes. Usually just a rubber mallet and a little wiggling gets the drums off other vehicles I've had. But nope. No budge. I guess there's quite a process to do get those drums off? If it requires removing the hubs, then that's what I'll do, because I'm sure that they need some love too. Should I do anything else while I'm in there?

 

Left hand on one side was a common feature back then with other makes also, the idea being that they would not loosen in service.

The alternate nut sizes were reflected in military versus civilian jeeps having those different outside dimensions. But either should work, if your wheels are standard. Either should be available at your FLAPS, and/or the larger ones from a military jeep source.

 

Man Pete! You sure know your stuff! Thanks for the info.

 

I want to say that I busted a nut learning about this, but actually it was the stud I broke off - cranking it the 'wrong' way.

 

ECJ5 right of passage I think...

 

Seems like everything before 1965 had those opposite direction lug nuts and studs.

 

I think Chrysler used them longer than that.

 

There should be an "L" stamped into the end of the stud on the left-hand studs.

Look at Dorman Products for your lug nuts. http://dormanproducts.com/gsearch.a...r=1963&make=Jeep&model=CJ5&parttype=Wheel Nut Look for 1/2-20L PN 98909 - these will be 13/16" size.

Any parts store can get Dorman stuff.

 

The LH treaded lugs are acually a carry over from the days of horse drawn wagons and carriages.
All horsedrawn conveyances used LH spindle nuts on the left side.

Kaiser Jeep corporation went to all RH lug studs in 1966.
It seems that you likely have a pre 1966 axle assembly.

 

Yup, left threaded studs on the early CJs, I found that one out the hard way! Also, the drums on the earlys are held on with a flathead screw, so don't hurt yourself trying to get the drum off!

 

My 66 had LH studs on the driver side. I've swapped out the front one to RH threads and will swap the rear out when I install the floater kit, but it came that way.

 

jeepermc,
Was your CJ built in early 1966 ?

 

Thanks a lot guys for all the input. And thanks Tim for the Dorman Products link. I'll be ordering some through them here shortly!
Johnny C, can you tell me where that flat head screw is located? Does the 4x4 hub need to come off as well? How about the rears? Would love to take a peek at those brakes. The info I've found on this has been a little vague.

 

I found a good thread on here with a picture of the flat head screws.
http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/showthread.php?84181-Brake-Drums&highlight=Removing+drums
Some posts say that the front 4x4 hubs have to come off to remove the drum to see the brakes, while others say it's not necessary to remove them. It sounds like a puller is the only way to go for the rear drums. Sounds like I don't want to take the big nut off on the rear hub all the way, or the brake parts will pop out everywhere. The 4x4 hubs on the front are super stiff to turn, so I'm sure they could use some help. Just don't want to go too far and open a can of worms with everything that could be, or should be done. I'll get to everything eventually, over time. It's just nice to be able to drive it, rather that it sitting in the garage for months.

 

Whether the drum is held on with flathead screws or the whole hub must be removed depends on the year and brake type of the Jeep. I've owned or worked on Jeeps with the flathead screws and also ones where the drums were held onto the hubs by the studs that were "swaged" in place so the drum could not be separated from the hub. You would need to look and see which style you have. Maybe Oldtime has some info as to when this changed.


Sent from my iPhone

 

Dang it. I had a set I threw away last month when I converted my drum brakes to disc. WebRep


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