Fino's 1970 Mini Build Thread

that is the same as I got....

Because this is true...

...these are not such mutually exclusive statements:

Its always more complicated than it should be.....I have fishplates along the sides of my frame horns that (at least in my mind) make it complicated to try and weld side plates...in particular the outside, bottom edge along the frame rail. Additionally, a 'little' detail like how to manage the width between the plates to match the 1.75" width of the spring hanger (or whatever it is) is not as straight forward as just extending two plates vertically down from the sides of the frame rails. I somehow have to get the width right - not sure if it would be too wide or too narrow for the spring eye, but coming up with solutions for these kind of issues isn't obvious to me. If the width was too wide, I could probably weld some 'washer' like discs on the inside to fill the gap in? Also, now have fishplate at the rear spring mounts which will complicate getting the right shackle bushing and again matching the spring eye width for the shackle hanger. Trying to buy parts like these online without ever having really seen one up close is daunting.

So I've never figured out how to get a good estimate of where the 'loaded' spring eye position will be....The front end can be 'tacked' but how much will the springs flatten/lengthen when loaded. If I had measured before I removed the front axle/springs and before I cut off the rear spring hangers, I might have had a better guess. Even so, I know exactly where the OEM rear hangers go, so I can make a pretty good measurement of eye to eye length. For starter, could keep the distance essentially the same - and seems like the new pivot in the front should target putting the spring eye close to where it is in the above pic, which means the pivot is moved forward 1" or so. Moving the new rear shackle bushing an 1" forward or so would be a start, but how to you really know or check it without putting the spring under load? The front pivot can be tacked and cut back out if needed, but once the rear bushing hole is drilled through the frame, that probably ain't moving.

 

umm...I am currently repairing the frame cracks....so the axle was pulled and the rear pivots were cut-off and I've done the repair work in terms of welding the cracks and fishplating both sides and bottom flange....Have NOT welded the pivots back on as once that is done, that means I am going back to OEM front shackle. Front shackle hangers are still on as nothing was done with them.

 

whatever the OEM v6 front driveshaft has.....probably not enough to get full droop with SR, but limit straps are an option

fishplates will add 1/8" on the outside only....Also, with regard to the through the frame shackle mount, if it doesn't move forward an inch or so compared to the OEM spring pivot, other issues include the Ross box etc.....and the frame boxing in that area is a bit limited

 

yup....

and why does it need to be shortened....seems like it needs to be lengthened, or allow for more extension is maybe the best way to say it...

I am not going to be in much contact for the next few days. Hitting the road for Idaho with the 58 in tow - doing a bit of trail scouting for next spring's RFTH with Stakebed and Pete from OWF.

 

FWIW - If memory serves I put the fish plates in that way more due to the seam mid frame on the front where I replaced the rail with new. You can grind and taper the weld out and make a U shaped plate from the bottom of the fish to or around the bottom of the front frame horn. Will be strong and do what your looking for by making the face smooth. Extend from outside the rail with steel and add 1/8 inside the hanger to narrow if needed (but don't think you will).

 

Finished the frame repair....nothing too spiffy....I recognize I missed an opportunity to go with a shackle reversal, but I ended up just putting things back the way they were. I really think a nicely done SR is the way to go, but just wasn't in the cards for me to do now. The paint came out a bit drippy but no big deal, cleans up easy enough...and no, the rear quarter damage will just stay as is for now




In preparation for HITR, also working on a few additional things....got the axle back under the jeep, and all new hardware for the shackle and spring hangers etc. When I originally did the shackles, I think I just used whatever hardware was included, and in some cases, I wasn't particular about bolt shoulder length etc, so this time, I really made sure to get bolts with just the right shoulder length and then cut the threaded section down to work etc:


tied the front hoop of the roll-bar into the dash/A-pillar:


checked the alignment/toe-in a bit more formally than I did this summer when doing the TRE flip...my eyeball job had a bit too much toe and maybe was leading to a bit of shimmy or minor death wobble when hitting potholes at speed.


Next up was getting the reverse lights functioning yet again....the mechanical switch mounted on the transmission always seems to have issues - this time it was smashed to pieces from what I think was just a lot of flex when wheeling and smashing it into the bottom of the tunnel cover....so this time, I just skipped the mechanical switch and put a switch in the cab. I'll have to turn them on and off manually, but at least they will work when needed:


And finally, had to find and set-up the water jug and carrier - I originally designed this to carry an extra gas can when I only had the 10gal tank, but now its occasionally used for water. Haven't used it since my first rubicon trip in 2019. Most trips there is water along the way and I find it easier to just carry a filtering device, but there won't be any water of any kind along HITR. Last year, when it was just me, I squeezed a few gallons in the passenger footwell, but with Jen potentially along this year, space will be a bit tighter. We are planning on close to 8 gal of water in the 2 jugs, plus another gallon in our water bottles to start.


So the last thing that needs addressed, after reconnecting all the brake lines, including those at the MC, the brakes are not functioning right. So back at that tomorrow and hopefully get it all good...don't like pushing things to the last minute, and brakes are kind of a big deal.