Point/condenser set screw thread size

What size (dia & thread) is the screw holding the points and condenser on a 74 258?
Someone removed the old set, new ones came with Jeep but no adjustment/hold down screws.
Second question, ballparkpoint gap? Specs call for 0.019, I suppose a match book cover (0.015) plus one strip normal paper (0.05) will get me real close.

Hoping to fire this thing tonight! Cleaned/rebuilt carb, new plugs/wires/cap etc etc.

btw, would like to upload an avatar...having some problems even finding where to do so.
Does one need to have paid sponsor account to do so?

here's two "before" images of Laban's Revenge

 

8-32 iirc.

 

Thanks Tim.
Any clues re avatar?

 

Avatar is supposed to be 50x50 pixel. At the very top of this page you will see settings. The avatar can be done here.

 

You may not have enough posts to have an avatar. Some forums have a policy about that. The forum rules are here - http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/showthread.php?85435-Forum-rules-and-guidelines

Screw may be 8-24, if 8-32 does not fit.

 

Jeep has 44515 original miles, one owner.
Although i removed the moss and lichen,
in honor of the resurrected Jeep CJ 5
I will leave the resurrection fern alive.
I fired up the motor today-it has not been turned over in 30+ years. It ran-with original factory plugs, cap, rotor, coil, wires. I set dwell with a matchbook cover, eyeballed timing, sanded points with 200 emery cloth, and stuck just the baseplate of the carburetor on the intake. Poured in a drop or three of pusholine-and It fired immediately! Don't misunderstand me though, getting drive train unseized was a bit more challenging. Gettin' the last laugh on Laban's Revenge, and the getaway car is almost done. What's next?

 

At first I thought you hijacked this thread, but you did start it. Gettng it to move might be a chore but I think getting it to stop is of equal importance.
Happy your motor is working.

 

awesome!

 

I found screws in my computer parts box that fit the distributor.
Now to at least get new ignition wires, time the engine and complete the carb rebuild.
To get it to run i just put the baseplate on the manifold, and used a 10cc syringe to drip gas.
I have a question on what I assume is the egr. Which way should the valve be, it was stuck with the counterweight flat vertical, but I got it loose enough to set it horizontal.
The way it ran with counterweight vertical seemed restricted, sounded better horizontal.
I do not want to split the manifolds yet to install blockoff plate. Or perhaps its not even an egr valve?
Google was inexact, some sources say yes, some no. It is a 49 state car, not CA

Thanks all, yes uncamonkey, now that I removed the flintstone brakes (new floors) I do have to replace everything brake related.
From master to hard lines, flex lines, wheel cylinders...would be cool to find an entire kit.
Oh, and I need a clutch rod, LOL I whittled up an oak temporary rod!

 

Google? You are not describing the EGR system. You are guessing, and guessing badly. Maybe the heat riser flap?

You should be reading the TSM. The TSM is your first and best source for questions like this.

The '74 TSM is online - lucky you, saves you ca $75. Look at the TSM. That will tell you what emissions equipment you should have. There is a section for each category of emissions device. All CJs in '74 have an EGR valve.

Said in the the nicest possible way, RTFM. http://oljeep.com/edge_74_tsm.html

 

Don't get your knickers in a knot Tim, even if you do know it all. So should the heat riser flap be up or not? Would be nice if you could convey more knowledge than arrogance.

i do appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge though.

 

You understand how this works?

 

Thanks for your picture. Manual has a one paragraph blurb to use Jeep heat valve lube at 5000 mile intervals, with no images or other info. Bit late for that, mine is missing spring and shaft seized. As manifold preheat, particularly in climates colder than Fl, these can be important to get the engine up to correct running parameters. I'm suspecting that mine has a cracked manifold-when valve was open (it was stuck that way) the engine smoked, and sounded like exhaust was escaping somewhere under carb. It appears that if the valve does not work, its best to fix it closed, ie with counterweight "horizontal" as your picture clearly depicts.

Obviously, ideally I would tear into that, and remedy everything now. Can't afford that atm-just have to get it to run. I will be trailering it to the 15 acres up on Lookout Mtn soon, and it is much easier to get it to run here in Orlando and attempt to diagnose any priority repairs. I appreciate your help with that.

 

My heat valve is different, integral to manifold, and seems to be missing the front counterweight and spring, can see a split shaft and a bare pin, positioned very much like your pic shows. That weight/spring faces front? On the rear is a stamped steel arm, stiff, and was stuck. That was what I wondered should be up, vertical, or horizontal. Also discovered a crack clear through between cylinders 2 and 3.
Time for the Ni-rod, or scrounge up another exhaust manifold. I fashioned up an egr blockoff plate, and remounted the finished Carter 1 bbl. It immediately started and idled well, ran for five minutes till i shut it down. Long enough to identify corroded and leaking thermostat housing, bad water pump, and harmonic damper about to toss its rubber.

I'm probably changing plans a bit based on what I found today-obviously pull manifold and damper. pull head, and have valves and seats, seals, surface freshened up.
Probably gonna drop oil pan, based on what I see in cylinders. Block water jackets need blow out, probably need to, at minimum, hone the walls, possibly new rings.
I was not intending to completely rebuild engine, but also not going to ignore what I can do to freshen her up.

Another question-does trans and transfer case share the same fluid, or is it sealed from trans? Fill separately, or does the T14 transmission fill also fill the D20 transfer case?

 

They share fluid but have separate fill plugs.

 

I know they use same spec gear lube, just wondering if the fluid freely transfers from one to the other...
i do realize they must be drained separately.

 

Not really freely but comingled yes

 

Transfer is slow, though the bearing mostly. If they are both empty, you have to fill them both, because the transfer is too slow to rely on for filling.

 

Thanks, filled up with low sulphur gear oil in trans, overfilled it about an inch intentionally with top loader plate removed and transfer case drain open. The amount I overfilled came out of transfer case nearly immediately. In other words, at least for a Dana20 tc and a T14 transmission, if you drain the transfer case and trans, you can install both cases fluid through the trans top. Have to measure the total combined capacity in order to do it right, and all plugs should be in. In use, certainly operating vehicle on inclines will result in fluid migrating quite readily from one to the other, but level operation will balance both to correct fill level in short order. Note you cannot fill the transfer case through the trans side plug (because the fill level of trans is level with the oil flow point between the two), but you apparently can fill both (using correct combined fluid fill capacity) through the transfer case vent atop the rear output housing.