Final Engine Assembly Questions

I'm going to be getting my engine back from the rebuilder and completing the external engine assembly this weekend and I have a couple questions. First an easy one.

1. It's easier to do all of this with the engine on a stand, right? I have limited space in my garage with the body on the rotisserie so I could just drop the engine on the empty chassis with the hoist but my gut tells me it would be easier to complete the build on the stand.
2. Are stainless bolts to attach the exhaust manifolds to the cylinder heads a good or bad idea?
3. The FSM (page #102) says nothing about gaskets between the exhaust manifolds and the block. This is just an obvious omission because of course there are gaskets, right? I have some (FelPro /Rock Auto) and was planning to install.
4. Any other advice from those that have done this before?

This is my first time having a go at this so I'm sure I'll probably have more questions...thanks.

 

1) Yes, in general, unless the accessories are going to cause issues getting it set back in the frame and bolted up, I usually leave things like the alternator or power steering pump until after I get the engine set back in there.

2) I honestly have no idea.

3) Lots of engines, from the factory, didn't have gaskets between the head and the cast iron exhaust manifolds. As a general rule, I put them in there if it doesn't have them when I took it apart.

4) My biggest advice, pop the valve covers off, and before the distributor is installed, get a big flat blade screwdriver, or a proper priming tool, and your favourite 1/2" plug in drill, and prime the heck out of the oiling system, with a mechanical gauge hooked up, verifying that you've got good oil flow up to the rockers, and good pressure, rotate the engine over a couple times while you're doing it, if you can, just to make sure you've got oil flowing everywhere that it needs to be flowing.

 

I would complete it on the stand and no way would I use stainless for exhaust manifold fasteners. Unless you go exotic, the stuff is soft and grade 2 strength. And it would be pure hell to drill out the seized/broken bolts from the block.

 

Should I just clean up the bolts that were in there when I took them off and throw them back in? With anti-sieze?

 

if the frame is in garage use it, but a engine stand lets you turn things over to work
my experience with gasket sets from engine shops is toss them in trash - cheap
do you know if the oil pump was packed by the builder

 

If they are still in good condition, yes.

 

You can. Personally, if they're available, I like ARP for things like that. Yes, they're overkill for a stock engine, but I've never bought and used them and regretted it later.

 

They need a soak and some time on the wire wheel but look to be OK. The one bolt/stud combo from the passenger side looks a little worn up at the shoulder, but not sure where I'd get another one of those.

 

I just bought exhaust manifold studs at NAPA last week.

 

They're 3/8-16, I use grade 5 and antisieze.

 

I can’t find the bag in which I put the bolts that mount the fly wheel. Does anyone know the specs (dia. / length/ thread / torque) on the flywheel mounting bolts?

They look like 3/8-24 grade 8... would it be worth not using Chinese Ace Hardware bolts for this?

and - Red locktite?

 

Flywheel bolts are specific, do not use Chinese hardware grade bolts. No red locktite either. Find real flywheel bolts!!!!

 

X2 on not using stainless bolts on the manifolds.

And also X2 on using the correct flywheel bolts. This is not something to skimp on, or get creative. You do not want a flywheel coming loose, trust me on this. If you can't find the ones that came out, order a set from Walcks or another reputable supplier.

Doesn't matter much whether you finish on a stand or in the frame since the body is off. It is a personal preference, but I would probably finish it up in the frame so I could hook it up and give it a test run there before putting the body back on.

I would have that flywheel resurfaced too.

Someone already mentioned using anti-seize on the manifold studs and that is a good idea.

You didn't say, but from the picture I see this engine is the V6. Most Buick engines, including the one used by Jeep, did not have gaskets on the manifolds from the factory. They used a special compound, I think I read somewhere that a substitute can be made from a mixture of chassis grease and graphite, but I just use good gaskets.

 

The Official ARP Web Site | Flywheel Bolts

I ONLY use ARP flywheel bolts. For the Buick application, you probably need to check the dimensions of the stock fasteners to order (Summit has the ARP kits and can get you individual bolts if desired). This is one place you don't want to be questioning the providence of your fasteners.

 

I use Brass nuts on exhaust studs, with anti seize. The fly wheel has special Willys bolts, a longer shank and shorter threaded area, as I recall. Good luck.

 

Thanks everyone for all the great advice. It's going to be a fun Saturday!

@Twin2 the rebuilder delivered it primed to 60 lbs since he put on a new Melling pump.
@Mcruff @duffer @Oldpappy @Rick Whitson I appreciate the input on the flywheel bolts - I found the bolts that came out. They appear to be 7/16-20 x 7/8 thread (1.125" oal) without a shoulder, and from the above picture were installed without a washer by the PO. Some of them look like they've been abused a little bit - would this be a good time to replace with new bolts if I can source some from a reputable manufacturer like ARP? At a quick glance I don't see a kit for a Buick V6...

Also, the rebuilder was curious about the "moving washer" on the dipstick that looks like it wont seal out dirt, and recommended that I try and replace it. Or could this be fixed? What is supposed to be on the dipstick?

Where do I want to be sure to use Locktite or anti-sieze on the various parts (such as fan pulley, starter motor bolts, etc.)?

Also, should I add any type of lube to the distributor gear before I install it?

Here's some pics:

 

Do I need to put gasket sealant number two on the bolts that go through the water pump flange?

 

You should put sealant on the bolts that go thru the water pump. I use Permatex Aviation #3 form a gasket.

 

I’ve got some of that, good call. Thanks!

@Mcruff Do you find that it’s easier to put the engine mounts on the engine and then lower onto the chassis or put the mounts on the chassis and lower the engine onto them?

 

Made some good progress today, got everything mounted up except the distributor. On that I have to grind off some of the intake manifold to fit the HEI.


I did a fairly major oops though when I didn't think about the fact that the through-hole shoulder on the new alternator doesn't span the whole space in the bracket like the old one, so when I went to tighten it down I snapped the ear off the bracket.

Can you tig weld cast aluminum? Or do I need to go find a new one?

Either way I'm going to have to machine a sleeve to take up the space behind the alternator through-hole in the bracket. Shown here pre-oops:


And the difference between the old and new: