Final Engine Assembly Questions

Should I clean up and paint the edges and front (not machined) surface of the flywheel?

Looks like it was partially painted at some point before.

 

Up to you, wouldn't hurt anything, but who will see it?

 

Yeah good point. Just wondering if it was originally done to prevent rust or if it’s just spray over from when the factory painted the block.

 

You guessed it.
Factory overspray.
Seen that before.

 

I'll try to get you a pic of the ground out part on mine, but I pretty much took it almost at a 45 degree angle to the edge of the bolt hole. Probably 1mm left there. I was nervous too, but it really wasn't bad, and the HEI just popped in place

 

I like this thread everyone is really supportive and giving great feedback. I’ve got an HEI I plan to install so I’m following and enjoying this thread.

 

I forgot to mention what others mentioned, that the canister needs to point dead forward. You need the one with the port on the side so it doesn't hit the fan. The hold down screw points strait at the widest part of the manifold and that is where I grind the cap a little, right on the bulge of the hold down screw. The manifold grinding, seen here on a jeep I have apart, is mostly forward and inboard of the button head bolt.

This photo, on another jeep shows the clocking. You might have to pick it up and move a tooth or 2 to get this clocking with the rotor still pointing at #1.

Hope this helps.
Tim

 

I don't know if this helps, but I clocked mine at a slight angle. I needed to because I am using an adjustable vac advance from Summit. The port goes straight out. I got around the fan interference problem by using a 90 degree elbow on the hose. The elbow came as part of a vacuum pump hose kit.

 

Thanks. I dig the orange too!

 

Well all of the above locations suggested will not work for my HEI app because my vacuum advance is adjustable and has to be adjusted with engine running. This has been gone through at adnauseum and there is or was a couple of the guys here that had the proper installation sequence correct. Yes you can make it work in other positions but it makes it very confusing for the not so informed on the 225's. I will try to look back and find the one proper install that should be posted for the dauntless as the most appropriate and end this confusion. This may piss some of you off but there is a hard way and an easy way.

 

I am all for ending confusion and finding the easy way! Thanks walt.

 

Just dropped the engine in - curious about the ~1/8” gap between the engine mounts and the frame supports:


Should I add washers? The FSM says 10-15lbs, which probably wouldn’t be sufficient to close the gap.

 

I don't worry about the gap but I'd switch to nylon stop nuts.

 

Good call. There were also internal+external tooth lock washers on the bolts when the engine came out, is it imperative that they go back or can I just use a split new lock washer? (Edit - I moved the ground strap to the unused starter-to-block bracket).



Currently on the Logan at Roundhouse widening the pilot bushing for the input shaft, apparently I have a T90J shaft in a T86AA case with a T90C cover...the i.d. of the National bushing I got at O’Reillys is .592 and the shaft is 0.628”

 

Thought I’d post an update. Last night we got the engine in, flywheel and clutch on, and then finished up the trans/xfer case and bell housing attachment as well.




Everything went pretty smoothly except for the pilot bushing issue mentioned above. We had a bit of trouble getting the last 1/8” gap closed between the transmission adapter and the bell housing due to a little too much grease on the input shaft end in the bushing, but we massaged it together.

Regarding the HEI. As several folks said, it really only goes in one way, and there’s no way the fan is going to clear.

I might be able to run it if I swapped out the side-port vacuum advance that Fireball linked above, but TBH I’m reluctant to tear apart below the rotor. I added a 1" fan spacer, and that doesn't really look like it has that much clearance.



So I might consider running an electric fan, which was potentially in the cards anyway.

Getting the exhaust Thursday so that will be the next big item, and looks like I'll be re-plumbing the front LH brake line.

Many thanks to everyone who posted above in this long thread, I really appreciate all the advice and answers to my many questions. It's nice to make some progress!

 

I think you have all kinds of room for that vacuum line. They don't miss by much, but they don't need to. If that spacer works with your radiator, which it should, I would try it before going down the electric fan road. Oh, and it really looks nice. Great job.

 

You can probably make the vacuum line work with an elbow like one of these: https://www.amazon.com/APDTY-58542-Resistant-Vaccum-Connectors/dp/B00JH2EWQ0/

 

Yup, this. Just use a 90 elbow off the advance can. With that spacer, you'll clear fine. I had the same setup on my 225, when it had an HEI in it. It's not quite as tight as you think.