F134 Swap

Hi Guys
Am about to install a F134 motor in my 2A and I have a few questions for you.
First, I will NOT have clearance issues with steering, brake, or clutch linkage. I'm not using the old stuff.
Many swaps use the holley 1904/1908 carb and than modify the air horn, cut the under the hood center seam brace out, and mill this and that to get the hood to close without a scoop.
Instead of all that, I want to do a simple body lift that will provide ample room for everything to fit properly. Will use the holley carb and a stock air horn .
WHAT height body mount would work? 1 1/2? 2"? ??

 

Is this the carburetor your looking at? (ignore the rest of the intake and exhaust). I'ld look at how high it has to be to clear the rockers compared to a single bore TBI.

DSC01384 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

 

looks like it but not positive do to pic angle. Ford Falcons used them in the Early 60's.

 

Like this one?


I have this one above to use if need be BUT I want to be prepared for the worst/ better. Having the tub setup properly for a holley modification IMO is a plus, it's ready to go instead of I should of could of. ALSO, the body lift is nice if I decide to stuff a Buick 231 V6 that I have laying around. The body lift provides good valve cover and air cleaner cleanerence. It should be a win win deal unless people can tell me different. I am listening.
With installing saginaw steering, swing pedals, and a modified gas pedal linkage, the only parts that may need attention is the X-fer levers. Apply heat and gently bend.

 

I have a holley carb that will fit an F head in a low hood jeep I would sell. Just an FYI

Keep in mind, a body lift with stock brake, clutch and steering column isn't as easy as it seems.

 

F Head 134 = 75 hp max at 470 lbs
Buick 225 v6= 160 hp at 392 lbs
2000 GM 4.3 v6=180-200 hp at 425 lbs

I know it bolts in, I had one in my 47 2A, but why? The GM V6 has factory FI and is everywhere for the cost of an engine kit for the 134. Even the 4.3 is an old engine at this point. All I know is that I have had a 2a with an F Head, a 225 and now a 4.3. The cheapest by far was the 4.3. I tore it out of a GMC safari for 500 bucks complete, bought a wiring harness for 700 and I am still under the cost of the F head rebuild 25 years ago with FI and an extra 100hp.

You don't need to justify your reasoning, this is just for others who search this to see the numbers. The F head was a fine engine in my 2a and the only drawback was the scarcity at the time for the proper carb to not cut or hood scoop.

 

I hear ya. Just was thinking a old school build.....minus the d30 frt, d44 off-set rear, sag steering, swing pedals, Hmmmmm, LOL
I have the 231 V6 which offers better oiling and water passages then the 22st. The heads on my motor have the high port ones. Just need to deck the block/heads, install a better cam, and have the 225 flywheel internally balanced. I like computer free motors so no 4.3's or ?

 

Mmm. Not meaning to pile on ... However, are good cores for the 134 widely available? Kinda think not. Check with current owners - Seems a lot of them have needed crack repair, and that can't be cheap.

 

There were 4.3’s from the factory that were carbureted.

 

I have a good F head that I can use. Came out of a '63 CJ5 with only 28K on the motor.

 

You are correct sir!

 

Up date:

After all this good discussion on the best approach to install a F134, I've come to a turning point, being, forget the F head! Just to much work for so little gain. Spent nearly 2 hours moving precious junk around and hoisted out a Buick 231 V6, or so I thought! Stuff just was not looking correct so I looked up the casting numbers and I'm a proud owner of a 225 V6. Works for me. Now I need to find a good rear dump drivers side exhaust manifold. Funny, I Just found one for a 231. No they are NOT the same. I do have a set of stock V6 mounts pulled out of a Jeepster and the drivers side is a Saginaw steering type mount. Here I go!!!