Sm465 Trany Question

I've rebuilt a SM465 and installing in my 72 CJ5 with a CJ3A body, T18,3.8 even fire. From watching several videos and researching I see replacing the 1/2 and 3/4 shift forks. The plastic coating is gone on mine but they show no signs of wear. Am I going to regret not replacing them?
I'm sure it might be a little noisier but the Jeep will be noisy anyway. I will be mainly plowing snow, doing some trail riding and driving around town. TIA, Baxter

 

I would try to find the plastic no reason to ignore it.

 

Also do the replacements have the plastic coating?

 

If you leave the plastic out, the shifting is going to be even more sloppy than stock-----

 

Has anyone on here replaced the shift forks? I checked with the local Chevy dealer and they are no longer available from GM. I didn't see them listed on Novak's website but I'll call them tomorrow and see if replacements have the coating.

 

Called Novak's. Their replacements have the coating. For $112 I got the 1/2 & 3/4 shift forks, top cover rebuild kit & shipping.
Better safe than sorry!

Hopefully someday I'll have this back on the road again!!

 

Got my forks from Novaks and just finished rebuilding my top cover on the SM465. The new forks do have a plastic or Teflon looking coating but it seems very thin compared to the little pieces that were left on my old forks. Also I miked them and the new ones are actually a couple thousands thinner than the old ones with no coating. So I don't think it will be any less sloppy.
I am glad I rebuilt it because my 1/2 and 3/4 poppet springs were both broken.
I would still like to know if anyone has just reused their forks with the coating gone. Did it make the tranny any noisier??

 

Just finished my rebuild as well. Unfortunately I believe I ended up doing something wrong I cant seem to get the trans to shift into neutral with the top cover off. Any Ideas what might be the issue? I believe you should be able to hold the first second and third forth slider from spinning while spinning the main shaft? Mine moves a little to the left and right but will act as if it is engaged to main shaft all the time.

 

Don't forget the reverse sliding gear down below.

 

in my experience, especially with new synchros, they will grab and act like its in gear even when its not, if you spin it by hand. if you can find a way to put a little more torque on it than your hand can provide itll probably spin free.

 

Is there a reason you can’t put the cover on? I had trouble shifting my rebuild from inside but shifted fine with the stick.

 

Both "sliders" are splined to the mainshaft through the hub they ride on. The gears themselves spin on the shaft and the slider locks them to it. This is called a "constant mesh transmission".

 

Ok,
Whats the deal.
I've got an image that I put an arrow on using Microsoft Pain and it won't load.

 

Another try

 

@jeepdaddy2000 with the orientation you are showing with the arrows you should be able to hold those gears and spin the input shaft while they stay stationary?

Here is metalshapers response.

"Make sure you are exactly in neutral. Also make sure your blocking rings are free on the synchro hub. They can bind and stick and cause trouble. Take a small screwdriver and make sure the blocking rings are free from the hub. If you followed my videos and did everything correctly you shouldn't have any trouble. Let me know how it goes"


I dont know how to get the blocking ring free from the hub... I was poking around this morning trying to get it to let go with no success. I am fairly certain that when I completed the rebuild I tested it through all the gears and now this is happening. Not sure if it is because its so cold and the assembly lube is stiff and holding something tight?

 

In neutral the gears will all spin at different rates except the sliding gear when the input is rotated. The arrows point to what should not spin (might take some force to hold with new bearings)

The output shaft should be able to be held stationary with the blocking rings and synchronized assemblies while the input rotates.
Again check that sliding gear in the bottom.
If it rotates with the input shaft you might not have the mainshaft pressed together correctly. Or that blocking ring is stuck. If it is rotating with a lower gear it is likely an issue with that syncro assembly. If it is all bound up you need to disassemble and check everything.

 

The sliding gear in the bottom you are referring to is the reverse gear?
Sorry for all my amateur questions....

How can I double check a "blocking ring" if that is stuck are we looking at the synchro ?

is synchro and blocking ring the same?

 

So that's what those monsters look like inside. I'm trying to get rid of mine...

 

After watching some more YouTube I think I am understanding what all you are saying. The input should be able to spin but the synchro might be grabbing. I need the synchro sleeves to be free. I used assembly lube but it is the solid green lube and its been 20 degrees in my garage I am wondering if it is just sticking hard on that stuff... I will have to give an update when I get home.

 

You may have put the dogs in wrong if you had it down that far. Not a 465 but I did that before and had to re-do it all.