Frame repair.

Finished welding and adding the second coat of Rust Encapsulator on the frame and would like to cover the areas that have pitting with a good sealer. I’m thinking about using StraightLine body filler http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=35, has anyone used this?

Any other thoughts or methods on covering the unsightly pitting?

 

Cover the frame in a roll on bed liner. It is thick and flexable and will cover the flaws. Not sure how it sticks for the long haul just an idea.

 

Steve, I did wrestle with the thought of just leaving it as is but with the new metal welded in the pits stand out more.

I’m sure the Duraglas or Marglas would work fine just as long as I start taking it down before it gets too hard.

This may be a bit easier to work with http://www.eastwood.com/shopping/pr...PRODUCT&RS=1&itemID=11052&keyword=metal+glaze

70CJ5, the bed liner is a good idea something I would of done if I hadn’t put the Rust Encapsulator on first.

Thanks Steve & 70CJ5 for your replies.

 

Chuck, See if this stuff with help you. I've never used it but cool reading. http://www.zerorust.com/index.htm

I've been using Eastwood stuff as well. That rust eliminator seem to work. I sponged my down good then used the encapsulator once it looked clean and dry. I've been filling with the tiger hair with glass fibers.

 

JB weld to fill the pits?

 

Two good products Rit & Tim

The owner is coming over today and we will come to a conclusion on whether were going with this http://www.eastwood.com/shopping/pr...PRODUCT&RS=1&itemID=11052&keyword=metal+glaze or just leave it be.

Thanks for all your help you have given me, some really good ideas to work with.

 

Just a thought:

let's say you fill the pits with some kind of filler, and let's just say that you don't keep your jeep forever.

let's just say that the new owner does something stupid with the jeep that causes a failure in the area that was filled...

sounds like lawsuit material to me..

just a thought off:

 

Excellent point Randy!

In my case the frame is already owned by someone else and he will be coming over today to agree with using a filler or not.

 

O I C

 

Just how bad are the pits? Am I correct in assuming that they are just minor pitting you are trying to cover, not frame rot? If the frame has been sand blasted it should be easy to tell. The problem with "bondo" type of filling is that it could allow moisture to get under it and rust further. Most of us have probably witnessed this on some old bodywork. PPG makes several excellent heavy filler/leveling primers that you spray on several mils thick. Then just sand off the excess. It is easy to use and works great. You would be amazed at what it will do. As long as the pits you are trying to fill are cosmetic and not structural you should be OK. I would just use it on the pitted spots not the whole frame, you could use a regular epoxy primer that is compatible with the filler primer on the rest of the frame. If the pits are bad enough that you need to worry about a lawsuit you should replace the frame. If it has seen salt be sure to check under hidden items such as bump stops etc. and places where cross members etc are riveted together. If I was sure the frame was sound I would go ahead, if we have to worry about damn lawers at every turn we would get nothing done. I would check it over good then proceed. Good luck.

 

Cam, thanks for your response.

In my opinion the frame is pitted beyond what would be normal for the year (52). I recommended to the owner that he should purchase a good used frame, but for sentimental reason he choose to keep this one. There is about 16 hours in on straightening and welding this frame.

As for using filler and attracting moisture the frame has been sand blasted and coated with Rust Encapsulator which should lock out of air and moisture.

I will check out PPG there is a ton of info on them, thanks.

 

Sparky, is this what your talking about http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=8 ? Seems like it would do the trick.

 

might be worth a try says it's flexible that'd be important.

 

I have had good luck with a product called Pors #15. It comes in flat black or gloss. I just did the frame of my 63 chev with it. It is also great for bedpans and inner fenders. You can get it almost anywhere. It is brush on or roll on.
Leon

 

My dad used Por 15 (i think) on a truck frame he had primered. The Por 15 did not stick to the primer. Not suppose to put it over anything just on bare metal but he didn't want frame to rust while he fixed it so he primered it. I'd make sure the stuff is compatable in a small test area before doing the whole frame and it falling out after you have the tub on.

 

Yeah, I've used that also on the Willys. Since I don't have a welder, I put a piece of tape on one side of the many tub holes to fill and the POR15 patch on the other. Dries hard and sands almost like metal. Seems to be holding fine after 2 years. Similar to JB Weld.

 

Rit, Sparky, I plan on covering the bottom rail (cab back) and one cross members, would buying two tubes be sufficient or would one handle the job? Owner wants just the bottom of the frame filled.

 

I don't know but, just me, I always over buy just so I don't have to run out again.