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Transfer case e- brake.

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Patrick, Dec 30, 2005.

  1. Dec 30, 2005
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
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    8,360
    I replaced my cable last week or so, and since I had shortened my old cable, things had to mount up a bit different to accomodate the new (longer) cable. Including the return spring that goes to the lever on the brake. Well apparently, I made the spring stiffer or something, because the brake wasn't working nearly as well as it was before the old cable broke. I was out messing with it just now, and ended up removing the return spring. It now works like it did,(or better) than before.
    Now, it seems to be fine without the spring. The internal springs in the drum pull the lever back fine. I'm pretty sure there was a spring from the factory.......
     
  2. Dec 30, 2005
    panzer

    panzer Super Mod Staff Member

    Columbus, OH
    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2003
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    Interesting to know Patrick. I just got in from replacing the whole e-brake
    system. I bought a rebuilt one from Herm and what a difference!!! The old
    one so messed up by the PO it didn't work worth a crap. The big return
    spring broke a while back and I just streched a bit and hooked back up.
    With the new set up I may try the way you suggested... Thanks!!
     
  3. Dec 30, 2005
    Steamer

    Steamer Thick and gritty!

    SW OR
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2004
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    389
    I need to adjust the piece inside the drum, but it's frozen. Is that adjustment a major key in the process. I didn't think it was that far away from spec, but my new shoes don't do diddly. I'll get to it again someday; in the meantime it's encouraging that somebody actually can still make one work! LOL!!! Mine used to, but it's been years.
     
  4. Dec 30, 2005
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
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    Mine does not work great by any stretch. It does hold the Jeep on minor inclines. The shoes are saturated with oil, but only a few years old... Funny, when you have a leaking axle seal that saturates the brake shoes, the brakes grab. Saturated E-brake shoes do the seemingly obvious, and don't grip, because they are, well, lubricated....
     
  5. Dec 30, 2005
    Steamer

    Steamer Thick and gritty!

    SW OR
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2004
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    389
    Aw, Jeez, mine doesn't even come close to trying. Moot point now; frickin' shop has water in it! Just too much rain at once, and we're saturated. No harm so far, just a (wet) pain!
     
  6. Dec 30, 2005
    panzer

    panzer Super Mod Staff Member

    Columbus, OH
    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2003
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    The kit I got from Herm has some heavy duty shoes. Not so much the
    pads but the part the shoes are attached. It's heavy guage steel. Not
    like the shoes Whitney sells. I tried those first and they didn't work well.
    So I went w/ what Herm offered and they work great. The actually will
    stop the vehicle. The steel of the Whitney ones were like 1/16" thick,
    the Herm ones are about an 1/8" thick. And arched to match the drum
    excactly. Very well rebuilt. I recomend the kit.
     
  7. Dec 30, 2005
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
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    My shoes came from Q tech, I think. I did have to grind a bit off of the "ears" or contact points (to the adjusters) to make them fit.....
     
  8. Dec 30, 2005
    53Flattie

    53Flattie Intigator

    Easley, SC
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
    Messages:
    855
    I've been out trying to install a new cable... I can't figure out how it's suppose to route. I can get the clevis to the arm on the brake, but I can't figure out where the clamp on the housing is suppose to attach to the Jeep??? This would be the first "up-stream" connection from the clevis. Its the one that will keep the cable housing stationary while the cable inside operates the e-brake. Any thoughts? Pictures?

    And, where did you route the cable after it comes through the firewall? Outside the frame rail, or directly into the master cylinder area and passing above the skid pan to the ebrake?

    Thanks guys!!!
     
  9. Dec 30, 2005
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    Sep 22, 2002
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    I used an old u-joint strap, heated it up and made a clamp for the end of the cable.... I'll take pics in the morning...
     
  10. Dec 30, 2005
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
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    Jul 30, 2003
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    here's a pic
     
  11. Dec 30, 2005
    53Flattie

    53Flattie Intigator

    Easley, SC
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
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    Jim and Patrick - thanks!

    I actually found that diagram on an old thread. Unfortunately, it didn't show where the cable attaches...

    I figured it out. There's a mounting hole in the top of the transmission crossmember. The housing attaches there, then the cable extends on out to the parking brake arm.

    I HAVE A PARKING BRAKE THAT WORKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :D :D :D
     
  12. Dec 31, 2005
    Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    Parker, CO
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2005
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    2,918
    Panzer - How much was in that kit? I'm missing everything from the handle under the dash all the way to the actuating arm on the t/c. In other words, I don't think my JEEP ever had the parking brake option installed, but the all t/c drum parts are on it by default.

    Does Herm's kit have the handle/bracket/cable, etc.? Or is it just the drum parts? I haven't had it apart yet, but I've got a feeling my drum parts don't have any wear...sure seems to work good just fiddling with it by hand.
     
  13. Dec 31, 2005
    Coho Willy

    Coho Willy New Member

    Southwest Virginia
    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2005
    Messages:
    23
    53 Flattie,
    Here's a picture of the cable shortly after the transfer case was removed this week. ('53 CJ 3b) The clamp is circled and shows the relative position to the clevis end. I wish the picture was clearer, especially since I took it with the hope of using it to refresh my memory during reassembly. Gotta do better going forward. I'm not sure if it is still connected to the skid plate or if it was attached to the xfer case or tranny. (Memory impacted due to Miller Lite's assisting removal of 8 rivets for the front bumper.) :beer: I do remember that my routing was across the skid plate and then under the passenger side up to the fire wall. Hope this helps some.

    Mark
     
  14. Dec 31, 2005
    panzer

    panzer Super Mod Staff Member

    Columbus, OH
    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2003
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    All I ordered was this from his web website:

    http://www.hermtheoverdriveguy.com/id41.htm

    "The brake assembly includes a turned drum, new bonded shoes and
    backing plate components for $65 exchange or $95 outright. The new
    shoes are arced for 100% contact with the drum surface. Call for a
    price on cable, handle or other components."
    Like I saind before, well worth the cost.

    Sorry, a day late a dollar short!!

    http://www.film.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Tech/BrakeCable.html
     
  15. Dec 31, 2005
    53Flattie

    53Flattie Intigator

    Easley, SC
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
    Messages:
    855
    Thanks for the links and the pictures guys!

    Coho - that looks just like mine, except mine connects on the drivers side of the transmission. I'm guessing that's b/c the e-brake on a CJ5 is on the drivers side of the steering column, rather than in the middle of the dash.
     
  16. Dec 31, 2005
    willysnut

    willysnut Banned

    Newnan, Ga.
    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2003
    Messages:
    654
    Glad to hear it's holding fine, just tweek it up a little and it'll hold on those hills too. Hey, maybe we should drill holes in that drum too!! I need a return spring on mine. I wouldn't trade mine for a rear emerg brake setup, I love it.
     
  17. Dec 31, 2005
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    That is exactly right Tim! :hurrican:
     
  18. Dec 31, 2005
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    Nov 6, 2002
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    Mine was attached to the center top of the crossmember Tim. I got lucky and was able to salvage the old cable housing clamps and re-use them on my new cable; Walck's has them for about ~5 bux each.
     
  19. Dec 31, 2005
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    Uh, or $11.fitty from Krage........:oops: Still sheep, tho, I thought....:)
     
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