1. Registration trouble? Please use the "Contact Us" link at the bottom right corner of the page and your issue will be resolved.
    Dismiss Notice

shackles.....1 more ?

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by wminmi, Jan 12, 2006.

  1. Jan 12, 2006
    wminmi

    wminmi Overgrown child at Work

    South Haven,...
    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2006
    Messages:
    137
    never changed shackles, so bear with me if this is stupid:

    When you install the new shackles, do you tighten the new bolts down tight or leave a tad of play in there to help movement?
     
  2. Jan 12, 2006
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    6,197
    Just snug 'em such that there's no side to side slop. Too tight and they don't let the springs work.
     
  3. Jan 12, 2006
    wminmi

    wminmi Overgrown child at Work

    South Haven,...
    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2006
    Messages:
    137
    thanx Mike

    That's what i was thinking, but wanted to make sure :coffee:
     
  4. Jan 12, 2006
    cam saure

    cam saure Member

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2005
    Messages:
    129
    In addition you may also want to be sure and have the weight on the springs before you tighten the bolts, so that they are centered, so to speak in their travel.
     
  5. Jan 12, 2006
    wminmi

    wminmi Overgrown child at Work

    South Haven,...
    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2006
    Messages:
    137
    thanx Cam, was just thinkin about that.

    IIRC, when i put the 8" springs in my chevy i had it in the air and reef'd the shackles tight.....VERY rough ride until i loosened everything (truck on ground this time) and retightened. I think i torqued them down again though.....BUT, it did ride nicer
     
  6. Jan 12, 2006
    High5

    High5 Member

    Urbandale, IA
    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2005
    Messages:
    802
    The ones I have from 4wd.com say in the directions that the cross bar should be torqued to 50lbs. and the end bolts should be torqued to 10lbs.

    High5:beer:
     
  7. Jan 12, 2006
    Southtowns27

    Southtowns27 Custom Title

    The Backhills of...
    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2003
    Messages:
    536
    What bushings did you use? I used poly ones that have a steel sleeve inside them. You tighten the bolts down until the shackle plates bottom on the steel sleeve. You can't overtighten them and squeeze the poly bushing flat hence binding it up.
     
  8. Jan 12, 2006
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2003
    Messages:
    23,596
    The original rubber bushings have a steel inner and outer sleeve too. However, I thought that the pivot is actually between the inner sleeve and the bolt. If you tighten them enough so that the shackle plate locks to the inner sleeve, the only place left to pivot is between the urethane (or rubber) and the inner or outer sleeve. I'd think this would wear out quickly.

    <edit> Well, the manual says 25-40 ft-lbs. This implies that the pivot is between the urethane (or rubber) and the sleeves.
     
  9. Jan 12, 2006
    wminmi

    wminmi Overgrown child at Work

    South Haven,...
    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2006
    Messages:
    137
    Thanx for all the info guys......i'm going to hold off on switching the shackles just yet. I figure i'll get the new springs and bushings then swap them out.

    On another note, i noticed today that the front springs aren't sagging like they were before (i took a pic of them, in another thread) and they actually appear in really good shape. Now i'm not so sure about getting lift springs as my 33's fit perfect and with the 1" lift shackles they should have more than enough clearence.......but still planning on new spring/shackle mount bushings at the least.

    <edit> of course it also helps that i took the ugly fender flares off.....i HATE fender flares
     
New Posts