Steering slop

How much steering slop is normal for a manual steering box? How much slop did it have from the factory?
I have about 2" of slop in the wheel. It makes things pretty interesting on the highway. Is trying to eliminate the slop unreasonable for a 30+ year old vehicle? This thing is my DD and i need it to have the steering in good shape.
Thanks

 

I did a forum search on 'steering', and found a thread that explains very clearly how to adjust the steering box. I know there is an adjustment on top of the Saginaw box, but I've not needed to mess with mine. I'll try and find that thread and link it.

Not exactly the link I was looking for, but all good info none-the-less.
http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11663&highlight=steering+adjustment

 

Sometimes you can adjust the screw by having someone sit in the jeep and see if its getting better or not. The manual box on my jeep is just plain worn tho, like alot of the boxes are nowadays. It should be replaced and I don't think its unreasonable to get the slop out.

 

I've got a '73 as well and the first thing I modified on my Jeep was the steering. I had the same problem and it was really scary to drive on the highway. I replaced the steering box with a power steering box as well as the steering shaft. Problem was resolved after that. I have no slop in my steering now. I went with a Borgeson shaft and a Saginaw box. The joints in the steering shaft are notorious for wearing out.

Good luck.

Casey

 

Nice to hear abnsigo. I plan on upgrading soon. You went with a used setup?

 

Start from the column and check everything to the wheels for wear. The steering box can be adjusted per the manual. Parts for the Saginaw manual boxes are available - search the older posts for sources.

 

I'm not sure how credible it is, but the JEEP rebuilders guide written by that Moses guy states that the adjustment on the steering box is really only intended for use shortly after assembly and should never be adjusted on an older vehicle to remove the slop. I have the same problem and reading that kinda scared me off. Besides, I have not run into anyone who has made an adjustment and claimed it was the fix for the slop. My .02. Take it for what it's worth.

 

There are two adjustments on all these boxes - one that adjusts the end play of the worm (bearing preload), and one that adjusts the gear mesh between the spur gear on the pinion shaft and the worm gear. All steering boxes (other than rack and pinion) have the same basic mechanical principle - the steering wheel turns a worm gear that meshes with the pitman shaft, and the pitman shaft moves the pitman arm and the tierods.

If you look at the factory service manuals, IIRC the earlier manuals (ca 1972) give instructions for tightening the mesh (the little screw on top) without adjusting end play. In my '77 manual, it says in big letters 'do not adjust the mesh until you adjust the end play.' The end play is the big nut on the bottom (top if power) of the steering box. These adjustments are meant to be done on the bench with special tools and an inch-pound torque wrench.

While I think people, in the past, have been able to adjust the mesh without adjusting the end play, I believe that is not the 'proper' way to adjust the box. Think about what happens when you tighten that screw - you're pushing the pinion into the worm. If there's any end play in the worm, that will push the worm sideways and even if it doesn't bind, that's not how the bearings were meant to be loaded.

JMO - follow the instructions in the later FSM and you should have a good (and safe) result.