27 front how much is a rebuild?

Im going to put disk brakes on my 71 in the morning. I have all the stuff and the day off. I was wondering if I should have the knuckles and seals and whatever refurbished. Anyone have any idear what this would cost at a shop? Im reasonably handy and will put the brakes together myself, but have never fooled with closed knuckles or any of that. is there a good instructional book? I would like to do the work myself (foolish pride), but dont want the front end to decompose while going 55 down the hwy. thanx my pals...also do i need a proportioning valve?

 

Problem is going to be getting parts by the morning. I doubt your FLAPS will stock the felts and such that you are going to need. Repack your bearings. You might get lucky and find the hub seals as they also interchange with some later model stuff. Google "knuckle pudding." I have also had good luck using a product called "Bentonite grease." It is available at your local lawn mower supply.

 

If you can do a disc swap you can rebuild your knuckles. Good time too, with the original backing plates off your only a few bolts away. Parts may put off finishing the disc swap but rebuild kits are available from Walcks I believe.:v6:

 

Definately take a look at the bearings at the top and bottom of the knuckle.

 

Finding a shop that could do that job correctly at a reasonable price may be difficult. I haven't done the knuckle rebuild, but I know what's involved and it doesn't seem difficult. Be ready to replace the kingpin bearings and all the seals. You'll need a cheap fish scale to set the preload.

If you don't have the factory manual, you need it. You can look at the '72 manual at www.c104.net or trailforge ... the full-sized Jeep vehicles still had closed knuckles in 1972, and the instructions for service will be the same.

 

I just did the knuckle job on my D27 and it is relatively easy. You should consider replacing the following:

1.knuckle bearings (race and cone)
2.wheel bearings & races (I know that you are doing a disc conversion, make sure the wheel bearings are new there too)
3. knuckle seal.
4. Hub nut and washers
1&2&4 can be obtained at your FLAPS: Advance Auto Parts has the parts listed on their computer for 1&2, I had to go to NAPA for 4. Walcks's or Krage will have the knuckle seals.

You will need grease, hand tools, a big brass drift, a fish scale and a BFH. Regarding manuals; I used Moses Ludel's Jeep building guide and a Clymer manual, but you could get by with just Moses's book.

It is easy and you need to do it if you are that far into your front end: my CJ5, a '70 was hard used, but low mileage. The knuckle bearings were shot, coming apart and the seals leaked. If your knuckle bearings are bad, you could have "death wobble"

Just do it and don't pay a shop to do it, you can do it your self.

 

MY advice: NAPA has a 1 piece rubber seal (made by Chicago Rawhide[not cheap, but NO leaks in 2 years]), get some emery paper to polish the knuckle area while it's apart to prevent leaks. Also use a lot of permatex on ALL the bolts (to prevent leaks). Don't forget to remove the grease seals on the axle ujoints (good time to replace them since you have the knuckle off) LAstly unless you like bleeding brakes, after you remove the backing plate, use wire to hold them out of the way on the frame (or spring).

 

Thank you, .i guess I will get a clymer manual today. I was up late lase night looking up parts so I think I will put it off this week and get all the stuff coming.

 

Just so you know there are a couple of items you may or may not need when installing the disc brakes.
I had to use the thicker races on the inboard wheel bearing to move the rotor out a touch. I also used the larger seal to compensate for the offset.
I used the inline 2# proportioning valve. Make sure the brake lines are on correctly. My original had front outlet, front brakes, rear outlet, rear brakes. When I did my conversion I put it back that way and could hardly stop. I ended up reading through many threads and found one that said to switch the brakes lines: front outlet, rear brakes, rear outlet front brakes.....made a HUGE difference.

 

IMHO don't get a Clymer manual. Look on-line for a Factory Service Manual. They usually run about $40.00 but well worth it. Check e-bay for used ones, that where I got mine. One for the older pre-CJ5 models and one for the CJ3B/CJ5 because it had the Dauntless info in it.

 

A Clymer manual or a modern Chiltons for an antique Jeep is almost a total waste. Either get a factory service manual like this: http://thejeep.com/manual.html
The manual is $34.95--------- PART# TSM-LATE
or find a Chiltons from the early 70's or older, they are much better than the new ones.

 

good point: I use the Clymer only for the torque value tables and the exploded diagrams. It has almost no useful verbage in it. I use Mose's Jeep Rebuilding Guide for great pictoral illustrations and common sense step by step instructions. (and the Clymer was free with the JEEP)

oops! it is a Haynes...not Clymer same difference I suppose