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yet another carter yf/f-134 problem....

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by jswigal, May 28, 2008.

  1. May 28, 2008
    jswigal

    jswigal Member

    Columbus, Ohio
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    May 8, 2008
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    Ok....so when I got the jeep, they had it set idling at 1000 rpms, (it idled great there). I knew that wasn't right, so I adjusted it down and could get it smoothish down to about 750, (I know its supposed to be at 600). Well....Now I have changed some things: new plugs, wires, cap rotor, PCV valve, muffler, (the muffler it came with exploded out the top, and it looked new too). The cherry bomb I put on it gets hot on the top now, and has burned all the paint off to bear metal, I can't get a smooth idle at anything below 1000. It hesitates when I first hit the throttle, but runs great after 1000 rpms. The exhaust setup is kinda botched together because I had to do it in a hurry and on less than a budget. So why can't I get it to idle smoothly? It sputters just a little every couple of engine revolutions, not quite a mis, or a backfire, but sounds like a very minor version of either/both. Any help would be great, this is driving me nuts.....
     
  2. May 28, 2008
    sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Perth, WA
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    Set the dwell?
     
  3. May 28, 2008
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    Sounds like possibly a vacuum leak causing a lean condition. Also check and see if the advance mechanism in the distributor is working correctly.
     
  4. May 28, 2008
    jswigal

    jswigal Member

    Columbus, Ohio
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    May 8, 2008
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    The distributor is a vacuum advance iat-4405, so I assume its working ok. I don't have a dwell meter, but the points/condensor were new when I got it. I did the "spray carb cleaner all over everything" vacuum check method, and got no change in idle.
     
  5. May 28, 2008
    sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Perth, WA
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    New doesn't mean that it's set properly.

    I'd investigate the vacuum leak first, but I've managed to massage away idle problems and off-idle stumbles by setting the dwell before too, which is why I suggested it.
     
  6. May 28, 2008
    jswigal

    jswigal Member

    Columbus, Ohio
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    How should I go about trying to set the dwell without the dwell meter? Is there a way to do so? Any other tips on searching for a vacuum leak without a vacuum leak detector? (aren't the PCV line and the carb itself the only possible vacuum leak places on this thing anyway?)
     
  7. May 28, 2008
    Brian P

    Brian P Member

    Clarkdale Arizona
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    Nov 24, 2007
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    Assuming points are set correctly and there is no vacuum applied to the distributor advance unit at idle you may want to take the time to check/adjust valve lash before you spend anymore time on the fuel and electrical system.

    I hope not but you may have a valve job on the horizon.
     
  8. May 28, 2008
    jswigal

    jswigal Member

    Columbus, Ohio
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    I guess maybe I should find a way to get a feeler gauge to do these adjustments. I will admit that I haven't even looked at the valves, but I was hoping it was something easier....(hence the new ignition components and such)....
     
  9. May 28, 2008
    blevisay

    blevisay Oh Noooooooooooooooo! Staff Member

    Portland Tn.
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    1 feeler guage and set the points should get you pretty close.

    2 Use carb cleaner to check for leaks.

    3 Make sure timing is at 5* btdc.
     
  10. May 28, 2008
    jeeper50

    jeeper50 jeeps 'till I die

    Spanish Fort. AL
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    New points? gap at .020?
     
  11. May 28, 2008
    jswigal

    jswigal Member

    Columbus, Ohio
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    Ok, going to get new points and a feeler gauge....Then I guess its on to checking the valves......
     
  12. May 28, 2008
    Homebrew2

    Homebrew2 Member

    Dunlap, CA
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    Exactly the same conditions I got my Jeep in.
    I'm agreeing with everyone else and adding some.

    Without a dwell meter, timing light, vacuum gauge, it's tougher:

    As said, set the points with a feeler to 0.020", no less, a little more is ok. If no feeler, use the matchbook trick.

    As said, set the timing to at least 5° BTDC. Mine was set to idle at 1000 rpm when I got it because it was 10° RETARDED.
    If no timing light, advance it till it will idle at ~700-800 rpm. If that works, run it at speed, if you run out of power around 3000rpm, you went too far with the timing and need to retard it immediately.

    After that, if you think the YF is a prob, I solved all my YF probs by running ~4 bottles of fuel injector cleaner in ~2 gal of gas, then continued running cleaner in each tank for several tanks. Fortunately that worked for me and eliminated a rebuild.
     
  13. May 28, 2008
    jswigal

    jswigal Member

    Columbus, Ohio
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    I'm always nervous about messing with the timing without a timing light....I will get the new points in (won't a correct point gap mean a correct dwell?) and then maybe see if I can get it to smooth out with some distributor tweaking, (I usually don't even run to 3000 rpm though, since I was under the impression that it redlines at 3200)....Then I guess I should move on to the carb.....Did you use the cleaner that you run straight into the fuel rail for injector cleaning, or just the additive stuff?
     
  14. May 28, 2008
    sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Perth, WA
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    No, as posted above, it gets you close enough usually.
     
  15. May 28, 2008
    Homebrew2

    Homebrew2 Member

    Dunlap, CA
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    The f head was designed to run at a max continuous speed of 4k rpm, I tend to use 4k as a redline and max cruise of 3800.

    I use Chev Techron in the bottle cuz it's cheap at Costco.
     
  16. May 28, 2008
    Homebrew2

    Homebrew2 Member

    Dunlap, CA
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    A quick search at Amazon will find a timing light and dwell meter for ~$25 ea, and a vac gauge for ~$11 with free shipping :)
     
  17. May 28, 2008
    jswigal

    jswigal Member

    Columbus, Ohio
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    You can really run it at 4k? Everything I've heard has said that it redlines a little over 3k, and to not run more than 3000 for any period of time.....do you know of any links to verify any of this? I usually run between 27 and 2800 on the freeway, (about 48 mph), but if I can go faster it would be great....
     
  18. May 28, 2008
    sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Perth, WA
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    Plenty of discussion here in the past about the durability of an F-head, top speed, max RPM, etc. Just hit the search function for the forum and see what you might find. :)
     
  19. May 28, 2008
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
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    LOL:rofl:
     
  20. May 28, 2008
    sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Perth, WA
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    Be nice Jim. I know you're laughing at the advice that's been given to the poster and not at the poster, but they're new here and don't know you yet. ;)
     
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