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304 Engine problems

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by dwanstrath, Oct 22, 2008.

  1. Oct 22, 2008
    dwanstrath

    dwanstrath New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2008
    Messages:
    7
    1974 Jeep CJ6
    Engine: 304, all stock with factory distributor, factory carb.

    I was replacing my tail lights and some wiring over the course of 2 days. The jeep drove fine into the garage. When I tried to start the CJ6 after 2 days, it would fire quickly while turning over, but not start.

    I had ordered a few parts a few days prior for winter repairs/maintainence, so I went ahead and replaced the coil, condensor/points, plugs, and the starter solenoid. I checked all the connections for proper voltage. The coil reads about 6 volts with the ignition on and the solenoid is providing the proper 12V during cranking. The plugs seem to be firing fine.

    I tried to restart the jeep and still had the same problem. I found that if I leave the choke on and cover the carburetor I could get it to almost start. The carburetor is squirting fuel in fine.

    My next guess is a vacuum leak. I have already plugged all the vacuum lines, but no success. I guess my next step is check the carburetor base gasket.

    Let me know if anyone has ideas.
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2008
    dwanstrath, Oct 22, 2008
    #1
  2. Oct 22, 2008
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2002
    Messages:
    4,275
    My guess is that you have power going to the coil when cranking, but not when the ignition is in the "run" position. Try checking to see if you have voltage at the coil when the ignition is in the 'run" position.

    A bad ballast resistor (if your Jeep has one) can also make it do this.

    IMHO, don't go around changing a bunch of stuff that has otherwise been working fine. That will just cost you money and leave a whole bunch of stuff that is now suspect. Go back over what you did, and eliminate all possibilities there before moving on to other systems.
     
    w3srl, Oct 22, 2008
    #2
  3. Oct 22, 2008
    dwanstrath

    dwanstrath New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2008
    Messages:
    7
    I have tested both the wire from the solenoid and from the iginition. Both test fine. I also ran just a hot wire to the coil to make sure.
     
    dwanstrath, Oct 22, 2008
    #3
  4. Oct 22, 2008
    lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Huntingdon PA
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    3,437
    Did you set the points? (gap/dwell)

    If you turned ignition to run frequently, or left in in the run position while testing lights, you may have burned the points, explaining the initial no start...
     
    lynn, Oct 22, 2008
    #4
  5. Oct 22, 2008
    dwanstrath

    dwanstrath New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2008
    Messages:
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    I did replace the points for the same reason, I thought I may have burned them during the wiring. I did gap the new points to .016"
     
    dwanstrath, Oct 22, 2008
    #5
  6. Oct 22, 2008
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2003
    Messages:
    23,596
    I'd suggest you do a more basic test. Remove the HT coil wire from the cap, and place the wire somewhere where it can spark to ground. Then turn the engine so the points are closed. With the key on, use something insulated to open the points manually. Each time you open the points, you should get a spark to ground. You can add your hot wire to bypass the switch, just to be certian the coil is getting power. The spark circuit is really simple though - points open, coil makes a spark. Points close, and magnetic field created in coil. Points open, field collapses and the change in field makes a spark. Rinse and repeat.
     
    timgr, Oct 22, 2008
    #6
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