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Grounding strips and fiberglass bodies?

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by scuter83, Mar 30, 2009.

  1. Mar 30, 2009
    scuter83

    scuter83 Member

    Ann Arbor, MI
    Joined:
    May 25, 2007
    Messages:
    93
    So I am gathering all the supplies to re-wire my fiberglass body, 1974 CJ5. I plan on getting grounding strips from radio shack, but was curious where people mount the one for the rear lights to keep it out of the elements? The dash and frond end I can find a place, but am stumped on the best place to stick the rear.

    Any suggestions would be great.

    Thanks,
    Scott
     
  2. Mar 30, 2009
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2003
    Messages:
    23,596
    Grounding straps? I don't think you need anything special for this. Get some black 12 or 14 ga wire, heat shrink, and loop connectors. No need to buy special braid or such. The ground wire goes from the taillight body (for example) to somewhere on the frame. If you are worried about good contact, I'd suggest using a shake-proof (toothed) washer under the screw at each end of the ground wire.

    I'd avoid Radieux Shaque for this stuff. Their parts are always cheap quality and overpriced. Mouser Electronics is my favorite source, but I've bought parts from them for many years. Waytek is also highly regarded.

    We've discussed making waterproof wiring harness connections; a search will find lots to read.
     
  3. Mar 30, 2009
    73cj5

    73cj5 Member

    Maine
    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2004
    Messages:
    905
    I installed a Bolt on the firewall were i connected all the grounds... Dash... Tail-light harness... Grill ground.

    A little extra wire but its out of the elements (runs inside tub)
     
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2009
  4. Mar 31, 2009
    lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Huntingdon PA
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    3,437
    When I wired the '71 (glass tub) I didn't use grounding strips or blocks or straps.

    I did just as Tim suggested. Extra wire with loop connector from the body of the item, to the frame, with toothed washers. Waterproofing isn't an issue.

    Since I ran a steel front clip, I grounded the battery to the inner fenders, making the grille a good ground for the front lights. For the interior, I used a steel dash. so I grounded the battery to the dash Anything that needed grounded on the interior was routed by wire to a common grounding bolt, one on either end of the dash (again wire/loop connector/toothed washer).

    Never had a grounding problem in the 11 yrs after that, and the new owner still doesn't have any issues.

    As for the waterproofing for the grounds...

    [​IMG]

    it really isn't an issue. In the back I ran taillight housing grounds, side marker grounds, fuel sender ground and auxilliary light ground all direct to the frame using the method described above. No issues. :D

    Good luck!! :tea:
     
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2009
  5. Mar 31, 2009
    rixcj

    rixcj Member

    Rhode Island
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2006
    Messages:
    351
    I grounded my tail lights to the rear crossmember ( with nut, bolt, washers ) then covered the connectors and hardware with several coats of liquid electrical tape. This waterproofs it pretty good.
     
  6. Mar 31, 2009
    Bob75CJ

    Bob75CJ Member

    Southgate, Mi
    Joined:
    Aug 23, 2007
    Messages:
    206
    I used a marine fuse block, had a built in ground strip in it. I used that ground for the dash and heater only. I used the frame for the lights and motor with the battery grounded to the frame and the fuse block. This is the one I used.
    http://bluesea.com/category/5/21/productline/126
    It was $16. I bought the 12 circuit even though I only used 7. Left a couple for extra lights and such. Drivers side kick panel is where I put it. Easy access and somewhat dry. Ok so they are $22 at amazon now.
     
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