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D44 Tapered axle bearing shims

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by ShowMeGuy, Apr 18, 2009.

  1. Apr 18, 2009
    ShowMeGuy

    ShowMeGuy ShowMeGuy (MO) 1966 CJ5

    St. Louis Metro
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2008
    Messages:
    78
    OK. I just had a shop set up the center section of my Tapered Axle D44 with a powerlok. Kinda t'd due to how much it cost and then find out my weekend plans for jeep wrenching hosed now.. WAAH....

    Now they didn't line up the spines on side gear and side gear ring so I can get the long axle shaft seated all the way. So that leaves me to try to get the shims correct on the short axle side. I have the spacer into the carrier at the end of the shaft new bearings on the axle, new race to go into the housing. Now do I have to have both axles installed to set the shims and preload on these? There sure is alot of slop between the axle bearing and the cup. According to my dial caliper its around .30 which to me is way to much! I have the service manual for this and it's not really clear to me......

    So maybe I'm not understanding how the shims come into place since the cup goes in deeper than my bearing plate? I'll have some pics later after gal gets back with the camera this afternoon that I'll post.

    ShowMeGuy the puzzled and t'd... call me a wahhbulance....
     
  2. Apr 18, 2009
    ShowMeGuy

    ShowMeGuy ShowMeGuy (MO) 1966 CJ5

    St. Louis Metro
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2008
    Messages:
    78
    Update.. Just went back out and I guess the Cup sits down further into the housing that I thought. Now there is no play on the axle against the carrier. So to get that .001-.005 clearance do you just slide hammer it outwards to provide that clearance? Sorry but this is my first time on a flanged axle and setting any bearing preload... so all advise welcomed...
     
  3. Apr 18, 2009
    scott milliner

    scott milliner Master Fabricator

    Seattle Wa.
    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2002
    Messages:
    2,362
    Cups?:? You didn't install the bearings backwards did you?

    The shims are for the preload. Removing shims = tightens the preload. Adding shims = more freeplay.

    You won't need a slide hammer.
     
  4. Apr 19, 2009
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2002
    Messages:
    12,394
    What you're doing is setting end play, not preload. I'm not sure about with the powerlok, but with an open diff. both shafts have to be in there to get it set right. You mentioned tapered axle, then flanged but I assume you mean tapered. Yes the bearing cups will go in a good ways. It's basically trial and error till you get it right. You should need the slide hammer to get the axle out, unless the housing is wallowed out.
     
  5. Apr 19, 2009
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    8,360
    You need both shafts in place, as the end play is set with shims on one side only. Same for Powerlok.
     
  6. Apr 19, 2009
    ShowMeGuy

    ShowMeGuy ShowMeGuy (MO) 1966 CJ5

    St. Louis Metro
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2008
    Messages:
    78
    I'll give it a whirl hopefully tuesday since I'm dropping this D44 back off.. Thanks for the info.. I may have more questions when I get to the actual deed..... ShowMeGuy
    :flag:
     
  7. Apr 20, 2009
    electricontr

    electricontr Member

    Denver Colorado
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2004
    Messages:
    244
    You can line up the splines between the spyder gears and the powr-loc clutch by looking into the powr-loc to see which way the axle needs to twist then put in the axle with the wheel on and give it a sharp twist in the correct direction until the splines are lined up. You do need both axles in place to set the clearances and you also have to have the little buttons in the powr-loc cross shaft for the axles to bear against.
     
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