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D-18 Endplay

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by gk1969, Apr 24, 2009.

  1. Apr 24, 2009
    gk1969

    gk1969 New Member

    Louisiana
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2009
    Messages:
    8
    I have followed Rick Stivers rebuild guide and am having problems with endplay.
    1. The first problem is I have used the entire shim pack that I ordered and have the proper endplay but it is difficult to turn the output shaft.

    2. The second problem is when I install the front and rear yoke nuts to the proper torque specs the output shaft will barely turn.

    Is this normal or did I not do it correctly. Thanks
     
  2. Apr 25, 2009
    Brian P

    Brian P Member

    Clarkdale Arizona
    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2007
    Messages:
    650
    With the intermediate shaft removed the output shaft will turn quite easily (even with a slight .001 preload ). When the intermediate is installed the output shaft will require a little more effort to turn but it should still feel smooth without the perception of binding.

    Assuming you have fresh oil seals and new felt dust seals when the rear yoke is installed it will feel a little stiff to turn, This is normal as the oil seal is applying radial compression to the yoke and the felt dust seal is slightly compressed against the oil seal face when the pinion nut is torqued down.

    If you know you have correct end play with the case asembeled and the output shaft turns smoothly without binding you should be ok.
     
  3. Apr 25, 2009
    birddog56

    birddog56 Member

    Pennsylvania
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    Feb 14, 2009
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    163
    What is your endplay in thousandths?
     
  4. Apr 25, 2009
    gk1969

    gk1969 New Member

    Louisiana
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2009
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    8
    It is between 4 and 6 just very hard to turn. When I installed the yoke nuts it is almost impossible to turn. Any thought of what would cause thism
    Posted via Mobile Device
     
  5. Apr 25, 2009
    A Mandery

    A Mandery Member

    Indianapolis,...
    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2003
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    138
    Have you pulled the yokes and rechecked end play? Is the intermediate gear in place? Was intermediate gear hard to turn before yokes were replaced? How thick a shim pack did you start with? I think there were 4-5 shims in the rebuild kit I used but 7-8 in the pack I removed (and reused) Did you grease or oil the various parts as you reassembled? I do not like to put that stuff back together "dry". As above, did you replace felt seals?
     
  6. Apr 26, 2009
    scott milliner

    scott milliner Master Fabricator

    Seattle Wa.
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    Dec 17, 2002
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    2,362
    If you have 4-6 thousandths then it should turn freely. I set mine to 4 thousandths. This was set before I installed the rear yoke.

    I do have an idea. Did you replace the bushing in the output clutch shaft? I found if you don't get this seated in fare enough it will bind the output shaft. I know it says you will need to ream the bushing, but it fit my clutch shaft just fine.
     
  7. Apr 26, 2009
    Brian P

    Brian P Member

    Clarkdale Arizona
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    Nov 24, 2007
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    If its that hard to turn I am inclined to agree with A Mandery & scott milliner, It may be a good idea to tear down and check everything. I know that if the felt seal is not properly installed and pressed into the grove in the yoke it will put excessive compression on the oil seal face and be very hard to turn.
     
  8. Apr 26, 2009
    birddog56

    birddog56 Member

    Pennsylvania
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    Feb 14, 2009
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    163
    Since were not there to see the thing, It's tough to troubleshoot. I hate to say this, but I suggest you tear it back down and localize each part. Install each shaft by itself and feel how it turns, then go to the next. Sounds like your endplay is good, but you have a radial clearance issue. Seals shouldn't make it too hard to turn if they were oiled before instalation, unless they were pinched or it is the wrong seal. How hard is it to get endplay numbers? Can you slide it by hand, or do you have to tap/pry? I wonder if your endplay numbers are accurate. If you are torqueing the yoke and it binds , then possibly something is not seated properly and you are getting a false reading. Keep us posted.
     
  9. Apr 27, 2009
    gk1969

    gk1969 New Member

    Louisiana
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2009
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    8
    Thanks guys for your replys, here is what was replaced and how.

    1. new felt seals
    2. new bearings and races
    3. new intermidiate shaft and roller bearings
    4. new bushing in clutch shaft

    The intermidiate shaft is installed. I will check that the output shaft and clutch shaft are fitting together properly.
    I followed the guide step by step for the order of assembly.
    I did install all moving parts dry.
    I used the entire shim pack that came with the rebuild kit plus a few that were original.
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2009
  10. Apr 27, 2009
    bkd

    bkd Moderator Supreme Staff Member 2022 Sponsor

    K-Town Tenn.
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2007
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    3,294
    Herm suggested using grease during assembly of the gears/ shafts etc when I did mine
    Jim S.
     
  11. Apr 27, 2009
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    Sep 22, 2002
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    8,360
    All those parts need to be lubed upon assembly. It can/ will cause substantial damage when you first start to run it if everything is dry.
     
  12. Apr 27, 2009
    gk1969

    gk1969 New Member

    Louisiana
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    Apr 17, 2009
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    What type of lube should be used on assembly. Grease or oil??
     
  13. Apr 27, 2009
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    Sep 23, 2002
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    12,529
    Gear oil on the tapered bearings and petroleum jelly on the needle bearings and bushings. I don't recommend grease as it doesn't mix readily with the gear oil and can actually plug up oiling passages.
    I'd also check and make sure your seals are installed all the way in their bores. If not the yoke can hit them causing the tightness/lockup you are experiencing.
     
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