Clutch Going Out of Adjustment

Check you transmission to bellhousing bolts to make sure they are tight. also the bellhousing to block bolts. Had it happen to me once. They slowly loosened and let the parts separate and changed the clutch setting. I caught it before it all came loose and fell out in the road.

 

I have to disagree with this one. If the hole is closer to the end of the tab you would get more clutch action with less foot pedal action. Seems like these clutches are already to "on/off". If anything you want less clutch action for the foot pedal movement to allow a more gradual, controlled clutch uptake.

Anyway, it doesn't seem like the clutch going out of adjustment would be related to the tab hole position. It's possible but not likely.

Perhaps check the motor mounts? Also possible but not likely if they're fairly new.

I would not switch to the AA chain setup. My impression of that is that it might work well but comes with it's own set of issues.

Good Luck.

 

AKCJ x2 per hole drilling.
Is there any sort of plastic bushings in the cross tube?
Andfor the least likely, broken pivot ball on the throw out arm.

 

Boyink, Go with the hydraulic clutch setup from Novak, its one of the best projects I did! It does require changing over to swinging peddals if you dont have them.

 

can you see if the bellhousing piviot ball is in the socket of the fork , I've had mine pop out and kind of give a variable clutch feel that always was changing. I have a AA chain and it gives me no problems but it's 25/30 years old.

 

What's the story on that clutch fork? Looks like it's been welded - as though it's been extended? With a longer lever arm there you need more travel at the pedal.

Going back to the tab at the jackshaft - it doesn't look like a stock tab to me. It's almost as though the hole used to be out towards the end but was welded shut and a new hole was drilled closer in to the center of pivot.

Both of these items would cause the need for more pedal travel which for my setup would be desirable, however, it may be too much so now you need to try going the other way.

I agree with the idea of fabbing better linkages with better hardware. Smoother action and less effort.

Just greasing everything on mine makes a huge difference - especially the pedal pivot. I added some zerks to the jackshaft so it's easy to get some grease on the inside for the ball pivots (t-case end and frame end). It's a bit messy but works well.

One more thing. I had the hat channel crack that holds the pivot ball at the frame so I was loosing the motion when I stepped on the clutch pedal. It finally broke off so I had to drive home without the clutch one day. In the pictures yours looks fine but it's worth taking a look at.

 

I'd be interested in the details of what you have. I have (and have read about many other) an "on/off" type clutch action. This can make it pretty hard to finesse things when the going gets tight. And gets tiresome for everyday driving.

Probably has to do with linkage, fork, and throwout bearing groove location.

There's some really good reading on this subject at the Novak web site.

Patrick, if you could spill the beans on this one it would be much appreciated. Dimensions, part numbers, pictures, or whatever info you may have. I'm trying to avoid the switchover to hydraulic.