Wiring Harness questions?

OK, so I am planing out rewiring my 74 (304/NP435/Dana20)
The wiring is stock 74 and on it's last leg and since I plan on fuel injection and HEi, I figure I better do this before I get started on that project.
This will be my first big wiring project, so I want to make sure I have all of my ducks in a row.

I am looking at the EZ 18 fuse, 21 circuit harness. Will this replace every wire in my jeep. Dash, headlight, tail lights, alt, coil starter etc? Do you use the original connectors for the headlights etc or all new connectors? DO they come with the kit?

I know I'll have plenty of extra spaces left over just wiring the stock jeep, but I can use those for the fuel pump, injection etc and wire other accessories there later on.

Would it be safe to say, I could just rip out every wire and start from scratch in the dash, or is it best to do 1 at a time?

Thanks for the help!

 

I used a 14 circuit harness and have quite a few extra circuit for upgrades later. I bought a harness 1st then rounded up replacement switches for lights, wipers, ignition and what not. I also used dielectric grease on all plug in connections. I used it more for future maintenance when things are taken apart.
Best upgrade I had ever done what with having everything working and having a real fuse block.

 

What brand harness did you go with? Im considering the same upgrade, but I'm just not sure if I think the "painless" harness is worth as much as they want for it. I don't see any reason why I couldn't use one of EZ Wiring's kits and achieve the same result.

 

I have the EZ wire kit.It comes with all the wire for complete rewire job.comes with GM style plugs for light switch,turn signal harness,headlight plugs ,etc.also bought new switches from them.have not installed it yet ,but everything looks to be good quality.I would think you would want to remove all wiring and start from there.

mike s.

 

I don't think there's much middle ground between repairing the existing harness and removing the harness to start over. If you want a harness with a single, central fuse panel, then you have to go with an aftermarket hot-rod harness.

Before you start ripping stuff out, make sure that you understand how your exising components (turn signal switch, dash controls lights, etc.) will be integrated with the new wiring diagram. Look at all the existing connectors to identify those you want to keep - either carefully unplug the connections you want to save and lay the old harness aside as a source for the connectors, or back up from all the components by a foot or two, and clip the wires. This will give you enough old wire to reuse the factory connectors you may want to save, like to the lights and switches.

Also, learn how to make a good splice before you start. I recommend uninsulated barrel splices and soldering, covered by adhesive-lined heat shrink. You'll need the parts and materials, a good soldering iron, solder, paste flux for wiring, and a heat gun (cheap - see Amazon or Harbor Freight).

Search old posts - this topic has been covered over and over and over ...

 

i got this one
Jeep cj5, WIRING HARNESS for UNDER $100
i paid 86 bucks
http://www.4wheelinjunkycomoffroadproducts.com/servlet/the-16/T3-universal-hot-rod/Detail

i can get 4 more curcuits that plug into the block for $16 if i need it in the future.

 

you do the best write ups in the world.
i love em!

 

I used this harness from Centech.
It came with all of the connectors for the lights and most of the switches.
Cheaper then Painless but more that EZ wire.
http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/jeeps/gv16ja.shtml

Used it for my 1970 CJ6

Andrew

 

I used the Jeep CJ specific harness form Painless,,, NO regrets. Saved me tons of time rewiring as well as possibly my sanity, I didnt see the reason to put a new EFI harnress into a factory wiring harness 28 years old.
Whatever one you chose will be better than trying to repair the old factory harness IMHO.

 

EZ was the best money I have ever spent!

I did buy GM weather pack connectors separate. (delcity.com) Added a good chunk of change but they are weather proof, and I should not have any future problems from corrosion. With all the extras it was still 100s less than Painfull harness. Took a little time to figure out the hazard switch but pretty cut and dry. TAKE YOUR TIME and draw things out. I put connectors on the front of the fire wall so you could take the clip off and engine is on anther plug in. I wired the engine on one plug in then head lights on one and, rear lights with fuel on one, so you end up with three plug ins on the fire wall but if you end up replacing front clip you just unplug the fire wall and go. (also cleans up the engine wiring too.)

 

If your a glutton for punishment, you could build your own. I did a complete harness using a fuse box from a salvage yard. The entire thing cost around $100.00 I will say that it was very time consuming and I will never do it again. If I need to do it again, I will buy a kit.

 

i bought the one i mentioned and hired my buddy to put it in.
under $300 installed.
i tried doing it but it was giving me fits.
i hired him and it was done when i got off work.