66 CJ5 Rebuild

Okay...here is the finished product. I cut 2'' from the passenger side and welded on a new plate. I also welded all the fittings, sending unit flange, and filler tube.






Forward mounting location. I added another piece of metal at this location to increase the thickness and strengthen the area.






I used 1/2 bolts for this application and I used plain nuts. These nuts do not have any coating and are good for welding.


A lot more room now
Next up will be a skid plate to protect all the work I just did.

 

Thanks Patrick

 

Damm you do good work, i think you missed your calling

Terry

 

x2

 

Man, I wish I could do that. Those welds are awesome. :stout:

 

I have the Lincoln 180C welder, and after moving up from a 120V welder, it's amazing the heat that thing will make; the welds look so much better. Also, it can be tuned way down for sheet. Welded an 14 ga. mower deck the other day.... looked like I knew what I was doing... almost.

 

Skid plate for the fuel tank is near completion. I used 3/16" thick plate. This skid plate is heavy, but it will offer excellent protection. I designed the skid plate with 1/2" clearance between the tank and skid plate.










The skid plate mounts to the bottom of the rear bumper with four 7/16" bolts. The rear attachment uses the same mounting holes as the fuel tank, however, I only used 2 of the 3 mounting holes for the rear mount. This design will allow me to remove the skid plate by itself.


I have a few more joints on the skid plate to weld along with some minor sanding. I will post more pics of the skid plate on the frame when done.

 

Yeah, much nicer than dimpling it with a BFH! I take back my pevious recommendation.....

 

hey pielut
how much does that baby weigh? if you get shot at the gas tank will do just fine!! are you planning to put some drainage holes in it or maybe lighten it up a little with some holes in the support panels?

 

Skeely...that sucker weighs around 45 pounds. I will put a drainage hole in it to keep water from sitting. I haven't decided if I will reduce the weight with holes. I probably will, just need to figure out a good looking design...

 

Looks really good. I know its been said before but darn it i wish i had your welding talents. Im actually having a skid made that is just like that one but I dont think its that thick...may be 1/8". Anyways, Im going to use a hole saw and cut 5 holes in the ol fashion dice pattern in the bottom of mine to keep the gunk out. Im also leaving about 1/2" gap at the bottom of the side supports so i can was through it also.

 

@72CJ5...I thought about making mine from 1/8" steel as well. The factory style skid plates that go with the rear mounted tanks are 1/8" or less.
I had some 3/16" plate laying around and I tend to over-build everything anyways. Funny, I thought about the 5 dice pattern as well. Post pics of yours when it's done.
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Ya I sure will. It should be done in a couple weeks or so. A buddy at work is building it since he had the plate already. I know my stock skid plate was really really thin. I could bend it with my hands purdy easily.

 

I have a '66 also. V-6, 3 speed, previous owner did some tranny clutch changes. not looking at near that amount of rebuild, but it needs some help. missing a gas pedal, and I would like to put disc brakes on the front. shocks are toast, electrical is sketchy, installing new seats, did the pinion seal and a U joint. Looking for cost-effective add-ons and things to look for. Any help is appreciated.

 

@BBach...Personally, I will be putting a Dana 30 front axle under my Jeep. It will bolt on and replace the D27. It already has disk brakes and is 2 inches wider.
As far as the wiring situation check out these guys http://www.ezwiring.com/wiring_harness.html
Several people have used this kit with good results and its cheap. I will be using the 12 circuit kit. Post some pics of your Jeep if you haven't already.

 

After thinking about it for a little bit, I decided not to put holes in mine after all. That just creates a place for a stick or branch or somthing to stick through and into my tank (poly). So Im just going to make it like I had originally planned...which is just like yours haha. And its 3/16ths. You think that will be enough?

EDIT: Nevermind, I just realized that you used 3/16ths also so that answers that question.
Also, if you decide to not cut holes in yours, you can do like I am and leave a gap at the bottom where the side suppports are. That way you can still drain/wash out the stuff that will get in there without hindering the strength of the skid. Mine should be done next week some time and will post a photo of it to see what you think.

 

I recently pulled everything from the frame and put in the side yard. This will be my new paint booth. I will either have it sand blasted by a local guy or buy a sand blaster from HF and do it myself.




Here is my tub waiting to be worked on. I will get this going once I have a rolling chassis.


Now it's time for rebuilding the rear axle. I will be adding a Detroit Locker, all new seals and bearings, and 11 inch drum brakes.

Thanks for all the help with the stubborn hubs. I started a thread in the Tech section because I couldn't get those darn things to budge, but with some advice I got em' off.




The guts


Here is the locker waiting to be installed. Any recommendations as far as a good quality/good price master install kit?


I recently decided to rotate the axle u-bolts. I will be copying this design. Easy to fab and really clean look.

 

What kind of a locker is that?