take off your top and show me your....

roll cage. Im getting ready to build one for my 46cj and need ideas. Not looking to make a jungle gym on wheels but need something adequate for trails and sand. What did you build or buy to keep try to keep that vintage jeep look? So post them pics and specs. Oh yeah, advice is wanted. thanks.

 

More photos of my DJ cage here:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?id=100001041885722&aid=34708

 

Nice, I love the simple look of it. what size tube diameter and wall thickness did you use?

 

Says in the Facebook photo captions, but it's 1-3/4, 0.120-wall DOM. Only exception is the 1-1/2 inch, 0.120-wall DOM used on the seat, rear cage, and dash cross-bars. (rear cross bar was integrated into rear tire carrier/bumper later - not in these photos) I'll see if I can dig up a photo of the rear tire carrier stuff.

 

oops missed the caption. Thanks for the info. I was thinking of going with 2inch. Would this look right?

 

do you have a bender? or are you going to buy a kit for the $ you can't beat here: extremecustomparts.com

it won't link here for some reason ......2 " is old school and what I went with since mine was half way done already but 1 3/4 is more whats used now a days.

 

Some other cage stuff for motivation. I mostly work in 1-3/4. Just personal preference. The 2-inch is what most early Smittybilt rear roll bars are. It looks okay. :

 

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e121/348Win/inthemmod2.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e121/348Win/inthemood.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e121/348Win/aluminumdash002.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e121/348Win/kayline27.jpg

1-3/4" tubing
constructed 1976
no other specifics
full length wheel well plates
dash support
front floor support
mini sand bar, 1/8 plate cover two middle bars
all fits under the Kayline top as well

 

mine is here -http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84799
huh that won't link either ....... anyway do a search for rear cage and mine is there but it's a 5 with the 2" kit from above .

 

Yeah, Im a weld major in college so I just scored full access of the fab shop at the school along with some help from my instructor . Turns out their bender only goes down to 2".

 

2-inch would be fine. With 2-inch you can use HREW if you want.

Couple of jpflat2a's


Glamis sand dunes

 

well then 2" it is ................

 

Great pics guys! Def. inspiring some thought and Im feeling geeked about it. It probably will be 2" unless I can talk my instructor into ordering some parts for the bender.

 

Any do's or don'ts for cage design?

 

If you're using HREW run the seam on the inside of the bend.

Notch your tubing tight: don't fill big gaps with welding wire. Check out the Pipemaster tool if you have to make multiple notches where more than one joint meet. http://www.pipemastertools.com/viewall.html I only got one of these once I started building the gray prerunner-esque '48 Willys in the photos. It's a lifesaver. Or at least a time saver.

Otherwise, up to you. Just remember a bend can be thought of as a weakness put into the tube. Don't just add them to look fancy like some dudes do. That's my opinion - not necessarily fact.

 

Sweet tool. Ill be sure to get one if the shop doesn't already have one.

 

no jungle jim as mentioned

take the extra time to make the extra bends for windshield angle, leg room, whatever else you think you might want/need, without affecting the integrity of the design.
Anybody can make simple bends and end up with straight bars; don't be afraid to customize it to your needs/wants.

 

the dies are expensive ,,,,, I built mine out of 2" electrical pvc and used 90* sweeps to see how I liked things before cutting metal .