Anyone running CV joints?

Any of you guys added CV joints to your drive lines?

It appears all that is needed is the Spicer CV housing, 1 extra 1310 U-joint and modify the lenght of the shaft....this sound about right? Of course my pinion angles will be adjusted for the correct CV phasing.

CVs are required on my set-up and I would like to do this as simple (and cheap) as posible. Not interested in spending $275 bucks "per" drive shaft for custom units!

 

Such as this?

 

and yoke...
and a pin on the end of the shaft to center the yoke..

 

Anyone have an exploded view of one of these things?

 

Googled it.



Another.

 

LOL....I found the same 2 images, via "Google". Doesn't look like the joint is as simple I had originally believed. I didn't realize both the t-case output yoke and the drive shaft are BOTH different pieces that incorporate a centering ball and not a std u-joint connection.

So what is the simplest way to do this in an early 5? I thought about securing a Chevy front axle with CV and using duplex sized u-joints, and having it cut down to lenght?? what do you guys think? I guess this would still require the center-ball t-case fixture.

 

If you have a yoke for a CV shaft already then head for the local yard to grab a front shaft from a XJ,MJ,TJ,and I think the ZJ also. Shorten to what you need and there you have it.

 

Are those all 1310 joints?

 

my trail spare cv shaft , came out of a junkyard Mitstubisi Montero, I just cut the tube at the weld ,and shortened it to my 5.easy and cheap.

 

Yep

 

I'm using what once was the front shaft on `73 Blazer. It has CV and 1310 joints and is much stouter then standard Jeep shaft. I does require a lift so it won't crash into the starter on a v6.

 

So, assuming you cut it down...that shaft should work on the back as well? Also can you bolt directly into the existing t-case yokes?

I really need one on the front end. The D44 pinion angle is 8 degrees vs 0 degrees on the existing Willy D25 front. I "assume" a CV set-up would manage the out-of- phase condition much better.

thanks

 

The front was just a few inches different (shorter) on my Jeep. I have a muncie 4 speed so the transfer case is farther back. I thought about putting one on the back as well but they say you should point the pinion at the output shaft of the transfer case and even with the 4" lift and the backed up transfer case it seems smooth to me.

 

To my knowledge, a double cardan joint will not bolt up to the existing t-case yoke. Also, going to a double cardan joint won't correct out of phase joints but they will address high angle drivelines. There is a correct proceedure for installing these type of drive shafts. See link:

http://www.4xshaft.com/driveline101.html

 

No. If your transfer case has yokes you will need CV yoke to replace it.
They have extended ears to clear the coupling yoke and without one I doubt you'll even get the CV to bolt up.
If, however, your transfer case has companion flange output then there's a possibility you can get an adapter to bolt up to it. I'm running a Dana 18 with a stock companion flange output and a double cardan rear shaft.

 

Did it require an adapter?...how did you couple the CV to the t-case output?

Yes I am aware of the difference and the method of setting up the angles (thanks for the link...good info). I'm just trying to figure out how to use my 8 degree D44 front without re-postioning both C-Knuckles. One is already off due to cutting the driver's side tube....really didn't want to remove the pass side as well. It's a bit tough getting them off without digging into the axle tube. But if I have to remove & re-position them both I will.

Q: Is anyone out there running a D44 front end with an 8 degree pinion angle? Mine came from a 79 wagoneer. (just wondering about the vidbration?)

 

They are NOT cv joints. As was pointed out they are double cardan joints. You need a specific type of yoke to work with them. All they do is divide the yoke to propeller shaft angle in half, they do NOT make the velocity constant. For example, if your yoke to propeller shaft angle is 6 degrees, the double cardan joint will divide the angle to 3 degrees per u-joint (single cardan joint). There is still a velocity change as the joints rotate. The idea is to reduce the vibration caused by the velocity change by reducing the velocity change by reducing the angle of the joint
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If you need a yoke and you like the used market, find an old FSJ with a Dana 20 T-case. The front output is set up for a CV shaft, which also could be used in your app.

 

The yoke you need is Dana Spicer 2-4-4061X, casting # F2-4-1019, 10 spline.
I converted my front drive shaft to the double cardan because I needed all the alignment for that short rear, too short to even think of getting a double cardan in it. I would just buy a new one-not much more than a speedie sleeve that you will likely need on a used one.