buick engine and transfer case

How would I check the ratios and will it make a significant difference if they are off? I hadnt even thought about that.

 

If the two axles don't have the same ratios, the wheels won't turn at the same speed, front vs. rear. Probably feel like driving a clown car.

 

what have I gotten my self into? Oh boy!

The tag on the rear reads #53552416 also stamped on there was 41-11
3 73

Is this the ratio? I didnt notice anything on the front other than 27A What would the stock ratios of that be.

Can the front or reat ratios be changes to make them equal if it ends up that they are different?

 

If you could shift in and out of 4 wheel drive while rolling on firm ground, the differential ratios are probably the same. If they weren't, you'd have too much windup in the drive line to shift in and out easily.

 

at what speed should you be rollin to shift in? Was 3 73 the standard for 71?

Should I try and change back to original 18 and axle or is this a decent setup?

Thanks for the input.

 

If your hubs are locked in, you can shift from 2WD high to 4WD high at any speed. You should be at a standstill or rolling very, very slowly to go into 4WD low.

3.73:1 was standard with the V6, and 4.88:1 was optional.

If everything checks out, I'd say you should drive it for a while and see what you like and dislike before you change anything.

 

Great Advise. I wish I had more time. I just got this thing on Tuesday and now I have to leave town on business for a week.

I'm going out for a quick spin this morning to get a fresh memory in my mind. I have time to come up with a game plan over the next couple of days.

I'll report back on my progress. Thanks again for all the help. You are right I should drive for a while and see what happens.

What are the thoughts on exhaust? It currently has some real crappy crack, rusted headers. I'd like to go original but havent found any manifolds. A couple of guys have full engines availabe and I may consider that, I don't now how good this one is. I don't think its original, but it is a 225 per the casting sheet.#991503

 

The best two diagnostics for engine condition are compression ratio and oil pressure. If you don't have one, you can buy a compression checker at Pep Boys or Autozone for about $25. Just follow the package instructions.

The relevant oil pressure readings are hot (fully warmed up) at idle and at cruising speed. If you don't have one, a quality mechanical oil pressure gauge only costs, say $30 from your local speed shop, Summit or Jegs.

 

Thanks, I was thinking about that. The problem is I have to leave town for a week. I'll check it as soon as i get back. One of the headers is not sealed well to the head and I think that is making it run rougher than it might other wise be. I'm trying to find some manifold to get it switch over. I might also get new headers, but I don't want anything to loud.

 

I just re-read your message, Didnt notice at first that you were so close. Thanks for the offer, I'm still out of town and trying to find some manifolds. I'll keep you posted. Either way I'd love your opion on the transmission and I'd love to see your jeep.