Lift question, I feel stupid for asking but...

I just received a 2.5 inch lift for my 72 cj5 from Pro-comp. Of course I open up the box and learn that there are no instructions.

So I call. Their answer is that that lift normally doesn't include instuctions...Great.

I am a mechanically inclined individual and have lifted two other jeeps before, but they were both TJs. I have a pretty good idea of what to do, I just don't want any surprises.

Can someone give a quick rundown and what order to do things, and point out anything that I should really watch out for?

Thanks!!!

 

buy some good penetrating oil and spray the heck out of all the ubolts and shakle hangars several times before you try to remove them. I will let someone who knows what they are talking about tell you the rest of it.

 

Got a sawzall? Did new u-bolts come with the lift? Are the new u-bolts the right size?

 

Yeah, I think the sawzall approach once you know you have all the replacement parts will save some time and effort. Let me know how those springs feel. I need new springs under mine and I want something with a comfortable ride.

 

This is the best I have ever found. Period, bar none.

http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

 

kroil must be some good stuff, alot guys tell me its the best.

 

One thing to watch: make sure the bolt head (or pin) that clamps the leaves together fits well inside the spring perch on the axle. Sometimes you'll have to clean out (maybe grind some) on the clearance hole in the spring perch for a good fit. You should not be able to see the bolt head after the spring is clamped to the axle tube.

This might be a good time to replace the frame mounted spring bushings too.

 

x2 on the bushings, they will be shot. I had to get extended front brake hoses for my 3 inch lift.

 

Sounds kinda silly, but, I usually shoot a photo of everything before I take it off. Even if the new parts aren't exactly the same.

On a side note: Scratch Pro Comp from my list of potential lifts...no directions!!

 

I will second that. I have used Kroil extensively in the automotive industry for several years, and have been extremely please with it's penetrating ability.

 

By this you mean the shackle bushings right? Bushings in the shackles. Don't most new springs come with new bushings?

 

I am thinking of a 2.5" lift for my 73. Are longer brake lines required?

 

The springs should have new bushings on both ends.
Some shackles have bushings, but some are found at four fixed points on the frame; two bushings at the rear of each rear spring, and two bushings at the front of each front spring. These points are common to the shackle attach points.

 

Kroil not available around here so we use PB blaster or Zep Superpenetrant. Works very well.

Make sure U-bolts are correct. No directions should not be a disqualifying factor because if you can lift a TJ a CJ should be very simple. However, having said that, I won't use a Pro comp on anything. EVERY one I've ever installed or driven were so ridiculously rough that it was a nightmare to drive. JMHO.

 

We use kroil on our turbine bolts with great results. I am talking about bolts in the 8" diamter range that are used in extreme high temp applications (1000F+) and under tremendous loads.. So I'd have to agree on the kroil.. Now as far as the lift, it's pretty straight forward, I can't think of anything that's not immediately obvious... Just ensure your u bolts are torqued equally and remember to check them frequently.

BUBBA

 

X2 on the hacksaw trick. Worked it for a good long time before I heard about that. After that, got them out in a very short time.

On one, I managed to cut a little deep and gouged the inside of the hanger's tube. I used some JB weld, then used a round file to smooth it out before installing the new bushing.