battery readings?

i am teaching myself how to use a multimeter today.
my headlights dim when i take my foot off the gas.
so i used my meter and got these readings.
12.30V engine running.
12.68V turned off.

it is my understanding i need 13.50 to 14.00V while it is running.
what should i do?
thank you gentlemen

 

ok
off to the land of google to teach myself how to do that!

 

Does the 63 use an alternator or a generator? I don't know. I don't know anything about generators.

If it is an alternator you could have a failing alternator or a bad regulator. The exciter for the alternator may not be seeing the correct Voltage either due to a bad or broken wire.

If you bring the RPMs up what voltage are you reading?

 

You need an amp meter. If your multimeter has that capability then you connect the meter in series with the feed from the alternator.

That means disconnecting the charge wire from the alternator and placing your leads for the multimeter so that the positive is on the charge post of the alternator and the negative goes to where ever the feed wire from the alternator goes.

In this configuration the multimeter completes the circuit and all current flows through it.

Alternatively you could pull the alternator and take it down to the local parts house and have it checked. But then you have to arrange a ride.

 

i found this


AutoZone will test your car's parts for free. We can test your car's battery, alternator, starter and voltage regulator while they're still on your car.

 

That's even easier.

 

If the alternator is not origional to the jeep you may need to tell the AutoZone employee what model the alternator is from. I ran into this with a couple of the big auto parts stores when trying to get the alternator checked on our '57 CJ5. I think it depends on how complex their tester is.

 

it is for sure not.
there is some homemade bracket holding it on .
and that alternator is the only shiny part on my slug.....

 

Might check your ground connections. And make sure the battery posts and connections are clean.

One thing to do, (I have the stuff, just haven't done it yet.(110 degrees in the non-existant shade around here)) is to install some relays to run your head lights directly from the battery. That takes all of the amperage and voltage for the headlights off of the main wiring and lightswitch, dimmer switch and puts them on the lighting curcuit you install.

Bet I am making this as clear as mud. Maybe someone will come along that can be clearer on the subject.:tea:

 

First things first, is your belt tight? You should not be able to spin the pulley on the alternator/generator by grabbing it and attempting to rotate. If you can do this and the belt is tight, look for glazing on the belt and/or replace the belt.

If the belt is tight and you cannot rotate the pulley by hand, place your multimeter leads (meter reading DC Volts) across your battery (red lead to +, black lead to -) with engine running. You should read between 13 and 14.5 Volts with ALL accessories turned on (heater fan, headlights, A/C, etc,).

If you do not read this high of DC Volts AND your belt is not slipping, you have an issue with your charging circuit that will need to be fixed.

This vintage machine COULD be a bad ground....check and clean to bare metal all grounds. Re-tighten.

If there is still a generator in it, suspect the commutator being dirty/shorted or the brushes not seating properly. Visually inspect these and have someone who knows them look if you suspect anything. If it looks OK, suspect the Voltage Regulator.

If there is an alternator, suspect a blown Diode or internal Voltage Regulator. These can be fixed but, depending on how competent you are with a Soldering Iron, really should just replace the darn thing.

With your description of symptoms, I suspect loose/glazed/worn out belt.

 

Bill,
My 56 hurricane had the same problem until I put a proper support for my alternator. It would rattle and shake when idling. I secured it with another peice of angle off the motor and now my lights are bright as day.
Al

 

With your static battery voltage 12.68, that would be normal. Many times when an up grade on the charging system is done, the installer will not match the pulley (on alt/gen) to original crank pulley groove width/depth. This is very important. The belts do their grabbing by the sides. If you have a narrow alt/gen pulley and you match your belt to that pulley, and you have a wide groove pulley on the crank then the belt will ride in the bottom of the groove of the crank pulley. This causes premature wear of the belt and slipping. I suspect you have a slipping belt. As said --grab the alt/gen pulley by the fins and spin. If you can then that's a problem that causes what you describe..

 

update
loose belt.
i was able to spin the fins.

 

Sorry Bill, I must not have gotten that belt tight enough after I checked the alternator bearings.
Still getting that chirping noise?

 

thats ok buddy.
the chirping has pretty much stopped.

 

Oil level holding better?
Thinking about sending you your own ceremonial, "1st annual Durango 4X4 tour Crescent wrench (4") .
You know how important they are.

 

oil leak is gone.
that sender was the culprit.


you mean "gasp" the wrench?
do you think i am ready?
it's an awesome responsibility....

 

Rinestone encrusted or zircons?
Little Kitty stickers?
I should send one to Hudson Hawk too.

 

zircons
no cats

H.H. seems like a man o the world.
i bet he's already got one.