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Help Please - front 4 wheel drive will not work.

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by 1955 M38A1, Jan 11, 2012.

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  1. Jan 27, 2012
    1955 M38A1

    1955 M38A1 New Member

    Aguanga, CA
    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2011
    Messages:
    26
    The jeep is a 1955 and and yes it is a new rig to me. Seems like every corner I go around with this project I run into a wall. It's a fun experience for me though. I really want to be able to work on the jeep myself and do most of the work so I know how to do it but these rear drums are something else.

    Maybe I'm confused - If I get the hub puller and use it, it pulls from the lugs yet the hub comes off without the studs? Or the entire unit come off and then I need to still find a way of separating the drum from the hub? If that's the case I think I might better off just taking it in and having the work done?

    Also I'm going to pick up the Haynes manual today!
     
    1955 M38A1, Jan 27, 2012
    #61
  2. Jan 27, 2012
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
    Messages:
    12,529
    Forget the Haynes or Chilton's manuals and get a Factory Service Manual (FSM) or Technical Service Manual (TSM). MUCH better. More expensive but worth every penny if you plan on working on your Jeep. Do a search and suppliers should pop up.
    When you pull on the hub with the lug studs you will be pushing on the end of the axle. The drum and hub will come off as an assembly. They sometimes come off violently so be careful.

    Later years of these Jeeps didn't use screws to hold the drums on neither were they swaged on. Earlier ones did. Again, I have never been able to pin down years as to what and when.
     
    nickmil, Jan 27, 2012
    #62
  3. Jan 27, 2012
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2003
    Messages:
    5,472
    The only rule I know is the older they are, the more likely they are to be swedged, and you can never tell when one hase been swapped. I should point out that most of my work is with the older units, a 69 is real new to me :)

    The lugs are pressed into the hub (or split face depending on your terms), and the hub slips on the axle shaft with a keyway tapered in to bind the two together. If the axle nut is torqued right, its a pretty strong unit and will hold up to more abuse than they are given credit for.

    Nick is right - the pics in a FSM will help explain alot of this much better.
     
    Warloch, Jan 27, 2012
    #63
  4. Jan 27, 2012
    1955 M38A1

    1955 M38A1 New Member

    Aguanga, CA
    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2011
    Messages:
    26
    Well I just purchased a puller off of Ebay. it was a decent price so I'm gonna give it a go and see what happens. Should take about a week before it arrives so until then I will find something else to tinker with. thanks for all the information guys and I will keep you posted on the outcome when I get the puller in hand.
     
    1955 M38A1, Jan 27, 2012
    #64
  5. Jan 27, 2012
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    cordele, Ga.
    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2007
    Messages:
    5,925
    Looking at the picture of the later hub (the one with yellow writing on it) it looks like the lug holes are larger than the lugs and if you back off the brake shoes the hub should slide off. May need some persuasion as may be captured by the center ring. The other one will need the hub puller. Remove the cap then the cotter pin. Loosen the big nut (150 lb torque +) about three complete turns. Spray with PB Blaster and install the puller. Good luck.
     
    Walt Couch, Jan 27, 2012
    #65
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