Help Please - front 4 wheel drive will not work.

I got the axle out and everything after the break looks good. the axle i pulled out has 3 or 4 ball bearings that held it together to the other sode of the axle. i didnt know it would fall apart when i picked it up from one end off the ground so i think i lost one bearring

all the aftermarket axles i find online are all ujoint type axles. will thhey replace the axle without additional modifications?

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z261/coleymunky/Mine/1955 M38A1/IMG_20120117_115832.jpg

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z261/coleymunky/Mine/1955 M38A1/IMG_20120117_115500.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z261/coleymunky/Mine/1955 M38A1/IMG_20120117_115435.jpg


thanks
Aaron

 

So I got my axle on order and picked up new brake shoes to go all around after seeing the front shoes, figured the back cant be much better.

There seems to be a lot of different things on here about differential gear oil. If I'm correct original fluid is 90W. The fluid I drained out was very thin, hard to believe that was 90W. Anyway is there any preferred brand out there that is proven to be a better product than another?

Also since I'm doing the brakes now too I read something about silicone brake fluid. Do I need to use silicone brake fluid and if so will an auto parts store carry this? One more thing - Does the Brake Master Cylinder also act as a hydraulic for the clutch, or is the clutch only adjustable by the threaded clutch bar? I have posted a picture below of the Master Cylinder.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z261/coleymunky/Mine/1955%20M38A1/MasterCylinder.jpg

 

Lots of debate of Silicone vs. the original DOT 3 brake fluid on here. Do a search and you will find lots of posts. DOT 3 was original however and you do not "need" to use silicone. The brake master cylinder is separate from the clutch. Original Clutch operating system is mechanical linkage not hydraulic. Again, lots of debate of different brands of gear oil. Kind of a GM vs. Ford vs. Dodge kind of thing. Basically use whatever brand you like and match the weight to the climate in your area. I like 85-90 in my vehicles here. I don't use synthetic as I have needs of changing my oils frequently and synthetic is $$$$.

 

I used silicone fluid in my hydro clutch for awhile. Didn't like it. You must completely flush it out if you change back as the dot 3 or 4 will make the silicone fluid gel when mixed together. There is a rather large Jeep wrecking yard in Fontana called Scotty's. I'd bet they would have had the axle shaft for you.

 

Did you change your clutch or is the Hydraulic clutch stock for your jeep? I have been under the jeep looking at the brake master cylinder and I swear it looks like it has lines for the clutch, as well as bleeder valves. I did try the bleeder valves but they are clogged up. I was thinking that maybe the fluid had turned into a gel as you mentioned above, however at the brake drum when I took the brake line off fluid drained out as one would expect it to. I could be completely wrong about the clutch being hydraulic but I just want to be sure. Maybe I will take more pics and post when I get a chance.

One more thing - I unscrewed the little square head on top of the master cylinder and am wondering if this is the only fill hole, or does is large square looking nut underneath supposed to unscrew the top of the cylinder? It looks like it should unscrew but I didn't want to torque on it much.

Thanks for the info on Scottys. I will remember that next time I need a part.

 

Your pic shows a single reservoir master cylinder that is brakes only. The lines run to the front and rear of the vehicle to the wheel cylinders. The very small square fitting on top is for the vent. The large square is the cap for the master cylinder reservoir and must be removed to add/check the fluid level. They frequently are on very tight or rust in place.

 

Sorry, Scotty's is gone. The owner died and everything was sold. Try J&W in Antelope (near Sacramento) or Border Parts in Spring Valley (near San Diego).

 

Thanks for the info. Are the valves on the master cylinder used for bleeding the lines or do you bleed the brakes as normal at the drums? and what is the venting for?

I feel kinda dumb asking all these questions. I have had classic muscle cars in the past and working on them was a breeze. These jeeps are a whole different world for me.

 

Ok, been having a hell of a time trying to get the rear hubs off. Never have I ever had a problem with hubs in the past so i gotta hand it to jeep, these are lots of fun to work on!

Anyway done a lot of research on here but I need some assistance again. I have 2 different hubs. Somebody has updated the passenger side with a newer hub and the driver side I believe is original.

Please take a look at these pictures and tell me if the solid hub is what is called Swagged Lugs. Also I have only found pullers with 3 arms not 5, how important is it really to have 5 arms on the puller? 1 last thing - Am I going to need 2 different pullers for the hubs?

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z261/coleymunky/Mine/1955%20M38A1/SolidLug2.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z261/coleymunky/Mine/1955 M38A1/SolidHub.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z261/coleymunky/Mine/1955 M38A1/SolidLug.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z261/coleymunky/Mine/1955 M38A1/NewerHub.jpg

Thanks!

 

If I'm not mistaken, what you've got there is known as a 2 Piece axle. Those are just covers, if you pop them off, there's a nut and cotter pin under there, like on the front of a 2WD car. Now, what I don't know, since I've never taken a D44 2 Piece apart, is whether you have to pull that nut to get the brake drum off. I wish I could be of more help.

 

Ok, so its a 2 piece axle and loosen the nut but keep the nut on so that the cover cannot shoot off from the energy. Question - Is it only a cover on both sides? The passenger side is different from the Driver. Do I still attach the hub puller to the studs on the passenger side? It looks like to me that pulling from the studs will not take the cover off. I'm just wondering if I need 2 different pullers? I had seen another type that goes all the way around the front cover in 3 spots and bulls from the back side.

I do not want to buy 2 different pullers and wrap up $250.00 in pullers just to replace some shoes... I may have to take it in to a brake shop for now and later do the disk brake conversion.

 

You should only need to remove the brake drums to replace the shoes, not the wheel flange.

You probably will not need a puller to get the drum off, just a bit of "persuasion" with a hammer, and some good penetrating oil like "Kroil" http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

Spray the studs, and center opening down well, let it sit for an hour or so, and then start tapping with a hammer, once you get the rust/corrosion to break loose, the drum should come off over the studs.

Be sure there is not a screw or two holding the drums in place to the flange.

Also, back off the adjustment on the shoes, to allow the drum to come off easier.

 

I did spray it down after I had take the pictures and there are no screws holding it on like my Dana 25 has. I tried the hammer on it but had no luck.

So now I'm confused a bit - In order to take the drum off, do I need a hub puller? Would something like this work? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/images/B003IWTL6G/ref=dp_image_0?ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive

Maybe I used the wrong terminology / wrong tool for the job I need to perform. Oh and I just cant see how those studs are coming out of that cover at least on the one side. The other side I can see happening but the one side looks as if it is all 1 piece. Hopefully it will come off!

 

Start with the side that looks like it will come off, hopefully someone else will jump in here about the other side.

I have never seen brake drums mated to the wheel flange, but then I am not a jeep expert by any means-----could well be something I have never run into before.

Hopefully Nick or Tim or one of the other guys can shed some light on this???

 

haynes jeep cj repair manual will answer alot of your questions. I use a hub puller like Warlochs The rear hubs are not an easy job sometimes and yours look like they have been on awhile. I bought my puller from JC whitney and it works great it was only about $60.00

 

I've run into Dana 44's with the drums that used the 3 screws to hold them in place and others that had the drums with the studs swaged in place. My '59 had the screws holding the drums on. I've never been able to pin down a year that changed. Maybe Timgr or Oldtime can help with that. Take a careful look at the wheel studs where they protrude through the drum. If the stud shoulder looks super tight or dimpled against the drum then the studs are swaged holding the drum to the flange. This means the drum and flange must be removed together. A puller as shown above must be used.


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I have done many of brake jobs on my jeeps. I have never ran into one that was swedged on. Of course the earliest year was a 69. Some were a bear though getting the drum off. The drum should pull off over the hub and studs (hub, and studs staying on the axle) exposing the shoes. I have used a torch, and just slightly putting heat to the drum, then using a rubber hammer to pop off the drum. Make sure your adjuster for the shoes are ran in So they don't prevent the drum from coming off. It sounds like you are trying to pull the drum studs and hub off together all at once. The drum should just slide off over the studs, unless im missing something with the year differances.